Tag: Hawaii

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Hawaii Packing List

I took my board shorts to Hawaii. I’ve had a pair for more than a decade, but before Hawaii I’d worn them only once to a charity gala, along with a tuxedo shirt and jacket and a bow tie with little palm trees. The fundraiser was formal but Hawaiian-themed. In Hawaii I wore them wade fishing and Kris made fun of them, even though I thought them dashing. Maybe she was making fun of my skinny white legs. The board shorts will be at Goodwill soon.

We both took 9 wt. rods, Kris took an Orvis HD3 and I took a Loomis Asquith, our Christmas presents to each other. I liked mine better. The Asquith is nigh on to perfect, but I need to use the H3 a bit to get used to it. They had different lines, too, and I may have cast the Rio line better than the Orvis. No one was injured by my casting.

I took a pair of Patagonia flats boots, the neoprene kind Patagonia doesn’t make anymore. I’d read that coral was a problem on the flats, and that heavy boots were needed. The Patagonias aren’t really heavy, but I didn’t have any problems other than sand in the boot, even around the volcanic rock. The bigger problem was that there was no way to tie them to the roof of the rent car, and they didn’t dry before we had to pack. Do you know how hard it is anymore to find a newspaper to stuff into your booties?

The rental car was a Subaru with adaptive cruise control. I’d never used adaptive cruise control, and didn’t know the car had it. It also had lane drift correction. That’s some startling stuff when you don’t expect it.

Where We Stayed

We stayed three nights in an Airbnb. I had tried to book Airbnbs before, but it never worked out. We were in a 15th floor apartment in an older apartment tower, and the tower showed its age, but it was central, within walking distance of Waikiki shopping, and cheaper than any of the Waikiki hotels. I gave them a sterling review, and they gave me a sterling review, and I doubt that either of us were exactly misleading the public or exactly telling the truth. We weren’t in the apartment much, and the coffee pot worked. The sheets were clean.

I’m guessing that a lot of Hawaii is a resort economy, which means a lot of folk scraping by on service jobs, and things are expensive. According to Jake the guide Airbnbs pull a lot of available housing off the market, and drive up the cost of what’s left.

Honolulu from Diamond Head

We spent one night at the Turtle Bay Resort because I wanted to see the north side of O’ahu. There were fashion models hanging out in the coffee shop, at least I guessed they were fashion models: they were young, thin, remarkably tall, pretty, and armed with a photographer. There were C.F. Martin ukuleles in the gift shop, and bad karaoke in the bar. There was a nice weight room and huge breakers. We weren’t there long enough for any resort activities, but sitting on the balcony playing the guitar and drinking coffee and watching the breakers was worth the effort. There was no free coffee in the lobby. I am immensely fond of free morning coffee in lobbies, but if I’d had free coffee I would have missed the fashion models.

Our final night we stayed at the Best Western Palace Hotel Honolulu, because we wanted to stay near the airport. We dropped the rental car that afternoon, took an Uber to dinner, and the next morning used the airport shuttle. It’s a plan that works well, unless the hotel is the Best Western Palace Hotel Honolulu. It’s tucked in at the edge of a grimy bit of freeway, has itself seen better days, and for the first time I recall I pulled back the covers and checked the bed for bedbugs. It was fine for the night before an early flight, and convenient, but next time I suspect I’ll pass. There were no bedbugs.

Where We Ate

We ate dinner the first night at Alan Wong’s, which is famous. It’s the granddaddy, and The Obamas Ate Here. Our waiter had learned his trade watching Bill & Ted’s Excellent Adventure, and things could have gone better. I’m sure it’s ok most nights, but I didn’t like the food much, and they lost us in the shuffle. Kris gave them one star on Yelp! I guess people only do Yelp! reviews when they own the place or they’re angry.

The Pig and the Lady

Waikiki shopping is like shopping Rodeo Drive, or the Miracle Mile, or Fifth Avenue, with all the high-end retail anyone could ever need. We ate dinner at a place called Roy’s Waikiki. It was very popular and perfectly decent and I greatly admired the lips of the Australian woman next to us at the bar, which were immense and must have been made, literally, for Waikiki. There were other parts of her that looked manufactured as well.  If you’re going to eat in Waikiki Roy’s is fine, though it’s not a place that looks like a Hank’s, or a Joe’s, or a Roy’s. I liked the tuna poke appetizer. Maybe if you go there the Australian woman will still be at the bar and you too can be amazed at the size of those lips.

The two hottest places in Honolulu are The Pig and the Lady, which was spectacular and my favorite, and Senia, which was Kris’s favorite and spectacular. They’re next door to each other in the old Chinatown, which pre-WWII was the place for sailors to go for tattoos, liquor, and sexual shenanigans and is apparently now the place to go for cheap rent and leis. The Obamas had dinner at The Pig and the Lady the week before, which if I didn’t like the Obamas would make an amusing joke. I do like the Obamas though, and I liked The Pig and the Lady. Those two places made up for Alan Wong’s.

At the Rainbow Drive-in Kris ordered for us and I got the plate dinner, but with fish, beef, and chicken on a single plate, plus chili covering the side of rice (but not the side of macaroni and cheese). It was delicious, all of it. We ate tuna poke at a random sushi place in a strip center (which I’d never have done in Houston). As for baked goods, the Coco Puffs at Liliha Bakery are obligatory, plus I had the Full Hawaiian Breakfast with Spam, rice, and fried bananas. I have a secret and long-standing fondness for Spam, Salt! Fat! Pork!, so I am one with the Islands.

Liliana Bakery

The malassadas at Leonard’s Bakery are the very thing, and if you order enough of them they come in a pink box. Get the one stuffed with guava jelly, and the one with the cinnamon and salt, and the rest of them.

Malasadas

I had the Obama shaved ice at Waiola Shave Ice, then ate the rest of Kris’s shaved ice which was some other set of flavors. It was healthy. It was fruit.

There may not be an Obama statue in Hawaii, but they sure let you know where the Obamas eat.

Where We Went That Didn’t Involve Fishing

The National Park Service and the Navy are keeping the Pearl Harbor monument open during the government shut-down with private donations. The Arizona Memorial is closed, not because of the shut-down but because it needs repairs, so we didn’t get to see my cousin’s name in the list of the dead: Houston O’Neal Thomas, age 20, coxswain. He was a bit older than my father, and I suppose they must have grown up together. He was a child. I suppose he had no notions of war. I hope his death was sudden and painless.

We toured the Ilioni Palace, which was the last royal residence of the last king, King David Kalakaua, and then the last queen of Hawaii. Queen Liliuokalani. The conspirators wanted immediate annexation of Hawaii into the States, but President Cleveland refused, and sent a delegation to explore restoration of the monarchy. When asked, Liliuokalani sensibly said she planned to cut off the conspirators’ heads. Her answer derailed restoration, but she was, after all, a queen, and off with their heads is always a queenly answer. Hawaii was later annexed by President Cleveland’s successor (technically his second successor), William McKinley.  The palace (which is modest as royal palaces go), is a monument to regret at the loss of sovereignty.

The Bishop Museum is also a bit of a monument to the monarchy, but it’s very fine, and probably the best collection of Polynesian artifacts in the world.

We climbed Diamond Head. There was some guy jogging up and down the path carrying a boom box blasting 80s music. Somebody should import ear pods to Hawaii.

Where We Didn’t Go

We didn’t see any of the other islands. We didn’t snorkel, so I still haven’t. We didn’t surf, and I never will, particularly since I’m getting rid of my board shorts. 

We didn’t eat poi at Helena’s Hawaiian. I’m not certain that Helena’s Hawaiian is ever actually open. It was closed all day Sunday and Monday and even on days it claimed to be open it closed by 7:30.

We didn’t see hula, though I did buy a reprint of a book first published in 1907 about the songs of the hula. We didn’t attend a luau. We didn’t visit a ukulele factory. We didn’t feed the mongoose, though I saw it.

We didn’t see the Honolulu Museum of Art, and we never walked on Waikiki Beach. We didn’t eat shrimp out of a food truck. Luckily we get to go back.

I didn’t buy a Panama hat from Newt at the Royal, so I’m glad I’m going back. It’s startling to realize that with a Panama hat, a cigar, and a goatee I could pass for a planter, or at least Colonel Sanders. They’re a bit fine to use as fishing hats.

Newt at the Royal Hawaiian.

Playlist

Hawaiian music is everywhere, everywhere. Maybe it’s just atmosphere, or maybe it’s pride and love. It can get cloying, but in reasonable doses it’s beautiful.

Unlike prior trips where I’ve depended on my own music collection with some supplemental purchases, I owned no Hawaiian music. I finally subscribed to Apple Music. It’s miraculous. I was able to download a perfectly respectable list of Hawaiian musicians.

  • Israel Kamakawiwoʻole. A half dozen years ago Israel Kamakawiwoʻole’s cover of Somewhere Over the Rainbow was all over the internet. He was a monstrous man, a man the size of a Sumo, and he was playing a tiny instrument and singing sweetly. He also did a cover of Take me Home Country Roads that doesn’t once mention West Virginia. I’m not sure that’s legal, but he was a bit of a rebel: he was a sovereignty activist.
  • Mark Keali’i Ho’omalu and Kamehameha Schools Children’s Chorus, Hawaiian Roller Coaster Ride, from Lilo & Stitch. Lilo & Stitch may be the strangest Disney movie ever made. I can’t describe the plot but trust me, it is . . . strange. And this is a fun song.
  • Elvis Presley, Hawaiian Wedding Song and Blue Hawaii. Elvis fits the jet-fed Hawaii. There’s also a very fine version of Blue Hawaii by the famous Hawaiian musician, Willie Nelson.
  • Keola Beamer and Kapono Beamer, Honolulu City Lights. This is a 70s album, and it sounds it. It is much loved, but they probably made records that carried the dated date less heavily.
  • Ry Cooder, Chicken Skin Music. In 1970 Ry Cooder made an album that probably still baffles folk. Chicken skin music is apparently a Hawaiian description of music so good that it brings goose bumps. The album features the great Norteno accordianist, Flaco Jimenez, and the great Hawaiian slack key guitarist, Gabby Pahinui. There is a cover of Irene Goodnight, and a cover of Stand by Me. The most Hawaiian song on the album, Hank Snow’s Yellow Roses, was as far from Hawaii as Tennessee, but it manages to sound like both.
  • Don Ho, Tiny Bubbles and Pearly Shells. I am of an age that remembers Don Ho. They are likable songs.
  • Gabby Pahinui. Of all of the Hawaiian musicians, Gabby Pahinui (1921-1980) is the one guy everyone should know. Gabby Pahinui is B.B. King or Ty Cobb. Ok, I’m mixing metaphors, but in his place, in his time, he was the distillation. He was a drinking man, but in the introduction of Iz’s Somewhere Over the Rainbow Iz announces “This is for Gabby.” It is Gabby who Ry Cooder included on Chicken Skin Music. It is lovely stuff
  • Na Leo Pilimehana, Local Boys and Waikiki. Na Leo Pilimehana is the girl group, and if the Beach Boys had been three Hawaiian women they would have recorded Local Boys. I sang Waikiki to myself for days. Sometimes I might have sung it out loud.
  • Steel Guitar Rag. It’s the song that stateside crystalized the popularization of Hawaiian slide guitar. There are versions by Bob Wills, Merle Travis, Les Paul, and John Fahey.
  • Louis Armstrong, To You, Sweetheart, Aloha. There’s also an album by Andy Williams. 
  • I guess Jack Johnson is the most famous contemporary musician from Hawaii. He was a competitive surfer but was injured, so he became a popular singer and guitarist. It’s hard to see how the boy ever got a date. It’s likable, amd it incorporates the sounds of Hawaiian music: sweet guitars, ukuleles.
  • Ka’au Crater Boys, Guava Jelly.  Motown meets Honolulu. “Ooh baby, here I am, come rub upon my belly like guava jelly.” That goes on to my road trip list.
  • Jake Shimabukuro, As My Guitar Gently Weeps. I think Shimabukuro may have single-handedly resurrected the ukulele.
  • Nathan Aweau, Akaka Falls.
  • The Brothers Cazimero, Home in the Islands.
  • Hawaiian Style Band, Let’s Talk Story. This one’s something of an ear worm.
  • Ho’ai Kane, Kona Red.

To get ready to go we watched a lot of the new Hawaii Five-0, and it’s addictive. I’m going to have trouble quitting.

For guitar music I worked on the Allemande movement to Duarte’s transcription of Bach’s first Cello Suite. I’ve worked on it off and on for years, and still can’t remember where the bass notes go.

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N’o’io and Mantis Shrimp, January 11-12, 2019

I didn’t catch a Hawaiian bonefish, an o’io. I saw plenty, especially the first day we fished, and I cast pretty well too, sometimes right where I wanted. That was the problem. Where I wanted wasn’t where the casts needed to be. My casts would land nice and close and then the fish would explode, not onto the fly either. It couldn’t have been more violent if I’d thrown a rock. Or a grenade.

Sometimes I’ve watched fish mosey away from my flies, dismissive and haughty. Sometimes I’ve watched them turn quick and quiet and run for the wild. I don’t ever recall watching so many huge fish blow ups. They were big fish, and big sudden flushes of water, and zoom, gone.

This was not exactly a wilderness experience. The first day we fished flats just off the Honolulu airport runways, near the port at the edge of the city, so there was a line of military jets and passenger jets taking off from the shared runway. Every 15 minutes there would be another jet taking off. Sometimes in deeper water our guide, Jake Brooks, poled the boat and one of us fished the bow. In shallower water we waded. It didn’t matter. I mostly couldn’t see the fish. Jake could, but especially after the first day I couldn’t.

The first day though I did see fish, at least some of the time, plus that first day there were tailing fish and you could see both their dorsal fins and tails above the water. They didn’t stand still, and Jake had me move to intercept them at an angle. As often as not when the fish were moseying away Jake called me off. He said we’d never get close enough for a cast.

And when I did cast there were fish explosions. 

I’ve read about delicate presentations for trout, but for the most part they aren’t useful for bass or redfish, and you have to cast even closer for black drum. Most days you put the fly a foot or so away, hope the fly makes just enough noise to get the fish’s attention, and then things are dandy: one sees fish, one casts near fish, one catches fish. It’s a simple game. Not so Hawaiian bonefish. They won’t belong to any club that would let them in.


Emerton, J. H.; Smith, S. I.; Harger, O. illustrators, from Goode, George Brown, Fisheries and Fishery Industries of the United States: Section I, Natural History of Useful Aquatic Animals, 1884, Government Printing Office, Washington D.C., The University of Washington Freshwater and Marine Image Bank

And mantis shrimp flies are heavy, with big lead eyes to weigh them down. I thought the heavy lead eyes were overkill, but there’s a reason for the weight. Hawaiian mantis shrimp aren’t delicate swimmers. They don’t spurt through the water column or snap above the surface. Both creatures are crustaceans, but shrimp (and also crabs, crawfish, and lobsters) are of the order decapod. What Hawaiian flies mimic, mantis shrimp, are stomatopoda. These are mean critters, living angry, mean lives in holes along the sea bed. They don’t swim, they scuttle, and you fish the fly with slow short strips along the sand. You need that weight to get them down. They’re predators, and it’s thought that they have the most complicated eyes in the world. Each eye is on a separate stalk that can move independent of the other. Those are pearls that were their eyes.


Mantis Shrimp, Todd, H.L. illustrator, from Goode, George Brown, Fisheries and Fishery Industries of the United States: Section I, Natural History of Useful Aquatic Animals, 1884, Government Printing Office, Washington D.C., The University of Washington Freshwater and Marine Image Bank

They hunt. They have a pair of raptorial claws that depending on the species can be either sharp spears for slashing or blunt clubs for smashing. They can break aquarium glass. They can break through oyster shells. Sometimes they’re called thumb splitters, because they can break through you.

Mayer, Alfred Goldsborough, Sea-Shore Life : the Invertebrates of the New York Coast and the Adjacent Coast Region, 1905, A. S. Barnes & Company, New York, New York, The University of Washington Freshwater and Marine Image Bank

So my predisposition for close casts and indelicate casting wasn’t helped by the heavy flies. By the time I got my best shot I had figured out the problem with close casts. I watched two fine fish happily eating down a line of mangroves 30 feet away. I made a perfect cast, five feet in front of them, and watched two fish explosions. Plop. Boom. 

“Ten feet,” Jake said. “You can’t get closer than ten feet.” Then I reckon you let the fly sit and wait for the fish to come to you. I reckon that, but I wouldn’t know for certain. It could be that you lead them ten feet and still don’t catch them, but at least you don’t shake them up. Jake said they weren’t leader shy, they were just generally shy.

Jake had grown up fishing near Tampa, where I’ve also failed to catch fish. He’d grown up playing baseball, a catcher–it’s a city ordinance that everyone who grows up near Tampa has to play baseball–and was injured his freshman year at Tennessee. He’d come to Hawaii to make surfboards. Everybody we talked to in Hawaii was from someplace else.

This fellow drove:

Jake was great to fish with, though I did worry that he and Kris were going to start talking politics and we might have to walk home. Jake was pretty conservative, which in Hawaii is an endangered species. I did tell him that nobody in Texas wants a wall, which isn’t strictly true, but is probably more true than most non-Texans think. For my $30 billion, if 900 miles of South Texas scrub and Chihuahuan Desert aren’t going to keep people out, a bit of wall isn’t either. I’m holding out for RoboCop.

The last day we fished with Jake he said Hawaiian bonefish were the hardest fish he’d fished for, because even with the right casts the fish have to cooperate. The fish have to continue in the same general direction and not go for a frolic before they get there. Jake said other redfish anglers have my problem: we ain’t delicate. We ain’t prone to ten-foot leads. His were consoling words, meant to make me feel better. I felt rotten.

I had one other good shot at a fish on day two with Jake, a puffer.  I saw it, I cast to it, and I felt it take the fly.  I didn’t feel it take enough of the fly though. I jerked it out of its mouth, and even at the time I half wondered if I jerked it out on purpose. I didn’t want a puffer. I wanted a bonefish. I wanted an o’io.

To’au (Lutjanus fulvus), blacktail snapper.

Kris managed to catch fish on the two days we fished without Jake. That’s because she’s not too proud to blind cast, and walked along casting.  Kris loves to blind cast, and would blind cast in a rain puddle in a parking lot. They weren’t bonefish, sure, and they were pretty little things out of a Disney movie, but there you are: for me they were colorful fish but not the right color of fish. Still, she caught fish and I didn’t. I felt great for Kris. Really. She only has to go back to Hawaii if she wants to.

Weke peuk (Upeneus taeniopterus). Nightmare fish, bandtail goatfish. Consume with caution: the head may cause hallucinations. Really.
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Endangered Hawaiian Flora and Fauna; Endangered Hawaiian Republicans

George, David Sischo/Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources

A Hawaiian snail died yesterday, and s/he made the news. Snails are hermaphroditic, but George didn’t self reproduce. S/he achieved a sort of immortality as the last surviving Hawaiian land snail, leaving no descendants. S/he was a handsome snail, but reclusive, and died in captivity.

Species eradication is a problem for Hawaii. Snails are vulnerable, but according to a list by the Hawaii Biological Survey, they’re not alone. There are hundreds of endangered species on the islands, and they range from mammals, the Hawaiian monk seal and the Hawaiian hoary bat, to plants, to George. George used to be on the list anyway. Now George is on the extinct list.

Island plants and animals are particularly susceptible to eradication by invasive species. They haven’t developed defenses, and the invasive species don’t have natural predators. Threatened snails in Hawaii (which includes an entire genus of which George was one species) are the prey of the rosy wolfsnail, an invasive predator imported to control pests on sugar plantations. The wolfsnail didn’t help with the pests.

I understand that there are now biological checks on incoming flights. Barn door, shut.

Meanwhile Republicans are also endangered in Hawaii. Before World War II, Hawaii was Republican. It was an invasive species imported by New England missionaries, and you may recall that New England was Republican then too. Remember that great line in White Christmas about the sparsity of Democrats n Vermont? It sounds dated now, like a line about the sparsity of Republicans in Texas.

The flip from Republican to Democratic dominance occurred in the 50s when the Democratic Party put together a coalition of Asian voters and labor. Hawaii was already an Asian plurality state and they were apparently ignored by the Republicans, and it remains the most unionized state in the nation. According to the Harvard Political Review, the strength of unionism dates to violent strikes against Big Sugar in the 30s and 40s. There’s a theme here, along with Florida and Louisiana and the rosy wolfsnail Whenever you see the words “big” and “sugar,” it ain’t gonna be sweet. It’s almost like Big Sugar can’t help playing the role of evil cattle baron in a John Wayne Western.

There are no Hawaiian Republicans in the United States Senate or Congress, and statewide elections run about 80% Democratic. There is a Hawaiian Republican Party website, which promises “To Make Hawaii Great Again.” That’s the problem with Hawaiian Republican politics: those Republicans who remain in the party are true believers. Only the pure bother to survive, kind of like being a Democrat in Oklahoma. In 2017 the rising Republican star and minority Hawaii House floor leader, Beth Fukumoto, resigned from the party because of a kerfuffle over marching in a women’s rights parade in Honolulu. There were only five other Republican members of the state house, so her resignation probably didn’t leave much of a leadership gap, but it was a classic conflict between the Tea Party wing and the moderate wing of the Republican Party. The moderate wing left. All one of them.

But meantime a similar split affects Hawaiian Democrats. You may recall that after President Obama was born in Kenya, he was born again in Hawaii, and Hawaii voted 71 percent for Obama in the 2012 election. Support for Hillary dropped to 63 percent in 2016, but then she wasn’t a native son, and it was still Hillary’s highest vote percentage of any state. But here’s what’s really interesting: in the Democratic primary, 72 percent of the state voted for Bernie Sanders. Support for Sanders was so strong that after the national election one Hawaiian electoral college voter couldn’t resist casting a protest vote for Sanders, even though the vote was required to go to Clinton. The Force is strong in this one.

The tension between progressive and moderate Democrats is a mirror image for the tension between Tea Party and moderate Republicans, and there seems to be no place where the progressive wing of the Democratic Party is as strong as in Hawaii. If Congresswoman Alexandria Casio-Cortez is now the poster child for progressive Democrats, it could have as easily been Hawaiian congresswoman Tulsi Gabbard. In the 2012 Democratic primary, the senior Senator from Hawaii, Brian Schatz, defeated his more moderate opponent by 1,732 votes by campaigning on issues related to global warming. He has apparently moved Hawaiian Democratic candidates to the left on global warming policy and healthcare and higher education accessibility.

Meanwhile I didn’t really know Daniel Inouye’s story, other than as commodified by James Michener. I recommend it.

Daniel Inouye, U.S. Army, source unknown, Wikipedia.

Postscript:

There was an article last week in Governing magazine that made me realize that the Democratic monolith in Hawaii wasn’t an anomaly. Of the state legislatures, only one, Minnesota, is split between parties. Republicans control 31 states, Democrats 18. Most states aren’t competitive. As a general rule, if rural areas control the legislatures (as in Wisconsin), the legislature is controlled by Republicans. Urban areas are Democratic. “The Republican Party has moved from the country club to the country, while the Democratic base has moved from the union hall to the faculty lounge. Democrats are far more likely to represent districts with a strong minority presence, while Republican areas continue to get older and whiter. ” I guess it’s almost a joke, but there you are.

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Another Interlude

On Thursday we leave for Hawaii, which for some odd and I suspect Southern reason I pronounce Huh-wah-yuh, which Siri can’t understand when I call up my playlist. We should spend today packing, which we won’t. What do we take? Some shorts, some shirts, some wading boots. The couple of 9 wt rods we gave each other for Christmas. A guitar. We fish with Captain Jesse Cheape of High Tide Fishing, a full day on Friday and a half-day on Saturday. After that we’ll sightsee. I think sightseeing is required by the nature of the thing.

It is the second farthest distance we’ll travel, closer than Alaska but further than Maine. I’ve actually practiced casting some, which is frustrating and unrewarding. I’m such a mediocre caster. I’ve tried to keep up my Hawaii reading, and have been through a couple of additional Hawaiian books–The Descendants by Kaui Hart Hemmings, which was very likable, and Dreams from My Father by Barrack Obama, which was about his birth in Kenya.

I guess my thoughts have moved on to Mississippi, which I’ve been working on for May, and Florida which I have to go to in February. I’m beginning to despise Florida and its uncatchable fish, but the Astros open there in April, and if we fail again in February (with a one-day fishing trip to the Keys) maybe we’ll make a fourth trip in April.

Hawaiian music hasn’t really grabbed me: it’s melodic, sweet, all major keys and thirds and fifths and pure tones. I’ve been cheating on Hawaii with Mississippi Blues. It shares a slide guitar, but not much else.

Frontispiece, Life on the Mississippi, The Baton Rouge, 1883, Gutenberg.org.

I also cheated on Hawaii with Mississippi books, and re-read Twain’s Life on the Mississippi. It is such an essential book. It’s only a bit more than a six-hour (read eight-hour) drive from here to Vicksburg, and we could visit the battlefield memorial and the National Cemetery over the long Martin Luther King weekend. Of course with the government shut-down nothing at the National Cemetery would be open. It’s too bad all presidents aren’t required to be born in Kenya.

Early on Twain also traveled to Hawaii (née the Sandwich Islands) and wrote a series of letters from there for a San Francisco newspaper. I didn’t find the letters particularly illuminating, though Twain liked the place immensely and always talked of going back.

I’ve tied some leaders which won’t turn over, and some flies which won’t catch fish. I’ve also bought some flies, almost all of which are some kind of spawning shrimp, which is the only fly I can ever seem to remember on Captain Cheape’s list. I do own a bunch of bonefish flies, almost none of which are on said list. I’ll haul them along anyway.

Meantime the weather here in Houston is as good as it gets: clear, windless, dry, and cool, 61 degrees this morning with a high of 71 degrees. There’s a mockingbird singing through the open door to the porch. Maybe I’ll go look for black bass this afternoon, or spawning crappie. Yesterday we took the skiff out on Galveston bay, and the combination of cold weather and still air left the water clear. We saw some redfish, too.

Didn’t catch those either. We did get some excellent oysters and ceviche at the Black Pearl Oyster Bar on 23rd Street.