Mount Equinox overlook, Manchester, Vermont
Rods, Reels, Waders
We took five rods, two 9′ five weights, a new Winston Pure and an Orvis Helios 3D; an 8’6″ four weight Orvis T3; a Scott 8′ four weight STS; and a Winston 9′ six weight boron IIIx. We never used the six weight, but being a Winston it looked good in our luggage. the Winston Pure unhappily broke when I slammed a weighted streamer into its tip, but I’ve broken rods before and will break them again. It’s off at Winston getting repaired. I think the repair cost is $75.
The broken Winston Pure is the rod Trout Unlimited sent me for my work as chair of our Houston Mayor’s Commission for Preservation of Bayou Salmonids. Restoring brook trout to Houston’s bayous is a real priority of mine.
Our reels were a mixed lot, all click and pawl, some older Abels and Orvis Battenkills and a newer Hardy. In Vermont on the Waloomsac River the combination of largish trout and current made a disk drag useful, and it’s the only time I’ve ever wanted a disk drag for trout. All of our lines were coldwater floating lines.
For pike we used Chuck DeGray’s eight weights with Orvis Mirage reels and 250 grain Depth Charge lines. I used the Recon and Kris got the Helios 3. Go figure. The Mirages are great, powerful reels, and I’d fish with Recons any day.
We took waders and boots. The hardest thing about air travel with wading boots is that post-wading they’re ten pounds heavier, and it’s usually enough to take our luggage over the weight limit. To dry them I’ve tied them to car roof crossbars, stuffed them with newspaper, perched them on air conditioning vents, and used a motel room hair drier.
By happenstance this trip I found the perfect answer: we didn’t wade the last two days fishing. Where we fished the Connecticut isn’t a wadeable river, so we stayed in the boat. That meant by the time we got to the airport the boots had dried. If I can help it I’ll never wade on the last day of a trip again. And I’ll try to get a rental car with rooftop crossbars just in case.
Chuck had two specialized bits of gear for pike fishing. To land fish he used a cradle net. It seemed harder to manage than a normal landing net, but it worked well for pike. He also used a jaw spreader to keep a pike’s mouth open for hook removal, which reminded me of a tool my dentist might use when I was being uncooperative.
Luggage
For years I’ve had a rolling FishPond rod case. It looks great, long and thin and stylish like a lot of FishPond stuff, with a lot of serious looking pockets and such for reels and fly boxes. It’s big enough for four rods, a vest, waders and boots, plus the other miscellany necessary for a fly fishing trip. The problem is that every time I drag it behind me through an airport it flips, and when I wrestle it back upright it immediately flips again. If I lean it against something, say an airport check-in counter, it immediately slides down onto the floor. It will not stand upright and it will not lean. I put up with it out of a certain earned fondness from familiarity, and it’s problems are no more than an annoyance and its virtues many, but Kris, who is a woman of strong opinions, passionately dislikes that case.
She bought an Orvis Safe Passage rolling bag a few year’s back. It’s pretty, but it has it’s peculiarities. It has these two three-quarter inch aluminum tubes inside that seem to go nowhere and do nothing, and for the life of me I can’t figure out their purpose. Still, it’s big enough for waders and boots and vests plus a goodly number of clothes. It’s got one real problem: It’s not big enough for rods.
So for Father’s Day this year Kris bought me a different FishPond bag, the Grand Teton, which rolls without flipping, at least some of the time stands without falling over, and is long enough for rods. In the old bag the hard bottom let me carry rods in Neoprene socks without tubes, which saved both weight and space, but I don’t trust rods in the new bag without tubes. Stuff is piled right on top of them. It does stand upright in an airport, and it doesn’t immediately flip over when I roll it along behind me. So far so good.
Rental Car
We usually rent mid-sized SUVs because we can load rods inside the car without breaking them down, but for some reason the cost of an SUV out of New York City was ridiculous. Instead of the SUV we got a full-sized Chevy Malibu. I guess it’s not really amusing to most people, but driving a Chevy Malibu around America sure amused me. It just seemed so 1960s, like a living television commercial during the Sunday night Bonanza episode.
We picked our New York hotel because it was close to a National car rental pick-up near Washington Square. There’s a premium paid for picking a car up in NYC, keeping it a week, and then dropping it off in Manchester, NH. I don’t know if we also paid a premium because the car was a Malibu.
Hotels
We had great luck everyplace we stayed, the Washington Square Hotel in NYC, the Beaverkill Valley Inn, the Equinox in Vermont, and the Lopstick Lodge in New Hampshire. I’d stay at any of them again.
Donuts
I’ve already mentioned our New York City donuts, and we didn’t look for bakeries in the Catskills. Manchester, Vermont, however, is a donut rich environment. I had read that the Equinox Resort had the best donuts in town, and the cider donuts are very good, warm, and dusted with sugar. The problem is that donuts are only available in the dining room at breakfast, and two of our three mornings we were gone before the dining room opened.
Our second Manchester morning though we made it to Mrs. Murphy’s donuts. They were already open and full of morning coffee drinkers at six when we got there. The guys at the counter had ceramic mugs, so high marks for Mrs. Murphy.
When we looked for donut shops in New Hampshire all the offerings we found were Dunkin Donuts. This didn’t surprise me. Getting ready for New Hampshire I’d read Scott Conroy’s Vote First or Die, about the 2016 New Hampshire primary. It prepared us for New Hampshire’s fondness for Dunkin Donuts. I don’t have a strong opinion about Dunkin Donuts, it’s a chain that’s not that common in Texas, but years ago when I read the Spencer detective novels Spencer always ate their corn muffins. I buy one whenever I’m in a Dunkin, but as someone who grew up on cornbread I think they could be better. Don’t tell Spencer.
What We Didn’t Do
In New York we didn’t explore the Catskill rivers, other than one small bit of the Beaverkill. There is also river fishing further north, and winter steelheading is a thing in the far New York north. There are a lifetime of rivers there, and I’d love to have seen more.
We’d been to the National Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown before, and to the Metropolitan Museum of Art many times. I’ve heard there’s not much else to do in New York.
In Vermont we didn’t visit Robert Todd Lincoln’s home, or fish the Batten Kill. There are lots of streams we could have explored but didn’t. We did stop at a farmhouse to buy maple syrup, so that’s off our list.
I really wanted to rent one of these tiny boats in New Hampshire. Puttering around the lake in the marine equivalent of a go cart just looked unimaginably fun to me. I had worked out a plan for fishing the lake from one of those boats rigged like we fished Pyramid lake in Nevada, with a balanced leech and a dropper nymph on a long leader under a bobber. I think I could have spent at least a day drifting and watching the bobber, but I never rented the boat.
In New Hampshire I also never got to shake the hand of a presidential candidate, or eat at the Buck Rub Tavern. I could have probably crossed both thoseoff my list in one trip to the Buck Rub. I’m pretty sure there’s always at least one presidential candidate shaking hands and busing tables at the Buck Rub.
We didn’t actually drive into Canada. We took our passports, but just couldn’t bring ourselves to put up with the bureaucratic brouhaha of getting over and then immediately turning around and coming back. I kept looking for the wall between us and Canada but couldn’t find it. Build the Wall!
