South Dakota

The Black Hills

The United States ceded South Dakota’s Black Hills to the Sioux in 1868, in the Treaty of Fort Laramie. The government intended that the Fort Laramie Treaty would settle the disposition of rights between the US, the Sioux, and the Arapaho, but what the government got was a mess. The Ponca, for instance, were not invited to Fort Laramie, but the reservation that the government had already ceded to the Ponca by treaty in 1858 was re-ceded to the Lakota without Ponca consent. Ultimately the US forcibly removed the Ponca to a new reservation in Oklahoma. It’s estimated that one in four of the Ponca died during the removal.

Photograph of General William T. Sherman and Commissioners in Council with Indian Chiefs at Fort Laramie, Wyoming, 1868, National Archives and Records Administration.

The Lakota1 didn’t actually live in the Black Hills. That was holy ground, and their claims to the Black Hills were relatively recent. Until the late 16th century the Lakota were concentrated in the upper Mississippi Valley–eastern North Dakota, eastern South Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Iowa–but were pushed west by the Anishnaabe and Cree, who in turn were being pushed west by Europeans. The Lakota took the Black Hills from the Cheyenne in 1776.

The geology of the Black Hills is complex. There’s some volcanic stuff, and some sedimentary stuff, and some metamorphosis going on, and layers of rock were deposited horizontallly beginning about 1.8 billion years ago. Beginning about 80 million years ago there was a period of North American uplift, known helpfully as the Laramide Orogeny.2 The uplift raised portions of the Rockies from Canada to Mexico, and also raised the Black Hills (which are a kinda Rockies’ distant cousin) so that all those horizontal layers were now tilted upwards. What we’ve all seen of the Black Hills, Mount Rushmore, is carved from the oldest granite core.

The granite core of the Black Hills.

The highest peak in the Black Hills, Black Elk Peak, is 7,242 feet, which is pretty tall, but not above tree line, and roughly half the height of the tallest peak in the Rockies.3 It’s a smidgeon taller than the highest peak in the Applachians, Clingman’s Dome, at 6,643 feet.

In the 1868 Fort Laramie Treaty the US gave the Lakota the Black Hills forever. The Lakota naively thought that “forever” meant forever. They didn’t know that the US were Indian givers.

Kmusser, Great Sioux Reservation as established in 1868 by the Fort Laramie Treaty, from Wikipedia.

In 1873 the US and Europe suffered a major economic depression. Before the Civil War, the US was principally a farming economy, and economic downturns weren’t so hard on localized farm economies. By 1873 railroads were booming, and they were the nation’s second largest employer. Railroad speculation was rampant, and then the railroad speculation economy crashed. It’s estimated that following the crash unemployment in New York City reached as high as 25%.

The 1873 Panic was caused in part by the conversion from a silver and gold monetary standard to a gold standard, which resulted in less money in circulation and higher interest rates.4 Suddenly there was no money to invest and railroads began to fail. Gold was rumored in the Black Hills, and President Grant believed that exploration for gold in South Dakota could both put the unemployed to work and increase the government’s gold supplies, resulting in more money in circulation and lower interest rates. In 1874 Lieutenant Colonel George Custer led an expedition of somewhere north of 1000 men, including the 7th Cavalry, geologists, biologists, photographers, and journalists, into the Black Hills to, among other things, explore the possibility of mining for gold.

View of General Custer’s Camp, Black Hills, S.D., postcard printed 1947, Library of Congress, LC-DIG-pcrd-1d06527.

It’s unclear if the Custer expedition found any significant gold, but true or not rumors of gold finds leaked. In violation of the Fort Laramie Treaty prospectors poured into the Black Hills. The flood of Americans annoyed the Lakota greatly, because they had those silly notions about forever. The US offered to buy the Black Hills, but not for what the Lakota thought it was worth, so the US took the hills without payment. The Lakota learned that in the context of the Black Hills, “forever” meant less than ten years. The Lakota went to war, and Custer was one of the big losers. The Lakota were also one of the big losers.5

Charles M. Russell, The Custer Fight, 1903, Library of Congress.

Population and Geography

South Dakota, with a 2024 population of 924,669, is the fifth-least populous state. At 77,116 square miles, it is the 16th largest state by area, and with 12 people per square mile it’s the fifth-least densely populated state.

With seven Sioux Reservations spread across the state, about 8.5% of the South Dakota population is Native American. Anglos are the largest group, at 80.5%. Hispanics are 5.1%, Blacks 2.6%.

File:National-atlas-indian-reservations-south-dakota.gif

Sioux Falls in the state’s southeast, roughly where Minnesota, Iowa, and South Dakota meet, is South Dakota’s largest city, at 209,289. Rapid City in the Black Hills has a population of 79,894. There are no other South Dakota cities with populations greater than 50,000. Pierre, the state capitol, has a population of 13,788. Pierre isn’t on an interstate highway.

The Black Hills are South Dakota’s only mountains, and they’re an isolated range in the state’s far west.6 Tourism has replaced mining as the Black Hills’ principal industry, and towns like Deadwood, Custer, and Keystone are tourist destinations.

Badlands National Park, parts of which are in the Pine Ridge Reservation, is located south and west of the Black Hills. The badlands are the product of deposition of horizontal layers of soft sedimentary sandstones, siltstones, limestones, shale, and other stuff that are eroded by wind and water into magnificent layered displays of time. The oldest formations are from the Western Interior Seaway and date from 75-69 million years ago. The most recent formation includes a layer of volcanic ash from volcanoes in Utah and Nevada, and are 34-30 million years old.

South Dakota is divided roughly in half by the north-south Missouri River. The east of the state is plains: the Dissected Till Plans (which also covers parts of Iowa and Nebraska, and which is an excellent place to grow corn), the Couteau des Prairies (which also covers parts of Minnesota and Iowa and is an excellent place to grow corn), and the James River Basin which cuts eastern South Dakota north to south.

Other than the Black Hills, South Dakota west of the Missouri River is arid, and is part of the Great Plains.

In addition to the Missouri River, the James and the Big Sioux Rivers cut the eastern half of the state north-south and meet the Missouri at the Nebraska state line. The east-west Grand, Moreau, Cheyenne, Belle Fourche, Bad, and White Rivers are spaced fairly evenly through the western half of the state, and they also feed the Missouri. All of the state’s best-known trout streams, Rapid Creek, Castle Creek, and Spearfish Creek, are small, relatively isolated creeks fed from springs and runoff in the Black Hills.

Black Hills Fish

The Black Hills are not only geologically isolated, they are biologically isolated as well. During Custer’s expedition, William Ludlow, the chief engineer for the Corps of Engineers’ Department of the Dakotas (and an angler), declared that there were no more suitable streams for trout anywhere than those of the Black Hills. He also noted that, in fact, there were no trout. He was right on both counts. There were the important game species of chub, suckers, and dace,7 but no trout.

We have spread more trout to more places than any other species of fish. I can now fish for trout in Texas, Chile, New Zealand, and Costa Rica. I have fished for non-native trout in non-native habitat from Argentina to Utah, and have fished for non-native species of rainbow or brown or brook trout just about everywhere. We love to move the various species of trout around, and they often thrive with changes in scenery.8 By the 1880s we were introducing trout into the Black Hills.

The Black Hills trout streams are now managed with reproducing wild fish supplemented by stocking, but none of the trout are native.

Politics

All of South Dakota’s state officials, from Governor on down, are Republicans. Even Kristi Noem’s dog was a Republican, for all the good it did her.

South Dakota has only a single member of Congress,9 and he’s Republican. Both US Senators are Republican.

In the 2024 election, Donald Trump received 63.43% of the South Dakota vote. The \counties that didn’t vote for Trump were either Clay County, where the University of South Dakota is located, or majority Native American.

Wikipedia, 2024 South Dakota presidential election results by county.

Kristi Noem’s Dog

The character of some places is forever shaded by a single moment: the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock, David Crockett died at the Alamo, Charleston fired on Fort Sumter, North Dakota fracked . . . In South Dakota, Governor Kristi Noem shot her dog. Then she bragged about it.

If you have a German wirehaired pointer and it has messed up your pheasant hunt, you don’t have to shoot it. There is a national rescue just for GWPs. I don’t think Kristi Noem is on the board. For a good discussion of what went wrong with Kristi Noem’s dog, All Things Outdoors did a nice job.

German Wirehaired Pointer, the State Gun Dog of South Dakota. Sourced from Wikimedia Commons.
  1. Lakota is one of two closely related Siouan language groups, Dakota and Lakota. The Dakota are further divided into the Eastern Dakota (the Santee) and the Western Dakota (the Yankton and the Yanktonai). The Lakota people are also known as the Teton Sioux. ↩︎
  2. Sarcasm. Geologists can be baffling unintelligible when they name things. I might bet that orogeny means the process by which mountains originate, but I wouldn’t give my odds at better than 50-50. ↩︎
  3. Mount Elbert, Colorado, 14,440 feet. ↩︎
  4. It’s often said that Nevada silver had paid for the Civil War, but banks far preferred a gold-based currency. The conversion from a silver/gold currency to a gold currency was also happening in the newly united Germany. Germany pretty much mirrored the US during the depression. ↩︎
  5. In United States v. Sioux Nation of Indians, 448 U.S. 371 (1980), the Supreme Court awarded the Lakota a $108 million judgment against the US for the uncompensated taking of the Black Hills. The Lakota refused to accept the judgment, wanting not compensation but return of the Black Hills. The damages were set aside in an interest bearing trust, and are now valued at close to two billion dollars. Seems like a lot, but I’d guess that buying the Black Hills would cost more. ↩︎
  6. There’s also a sliver of the Black Hills in Wyoming. ↩︎
  7. Sarcasm. Chub, suckers, and dace, whatever their excellent personalities and ability to dance well, are not considered important gamefish. ↩︎
  8. The only game animal we’ve moved around as much as trout may be the pheasant. Pheasant hunts in South Dakota may be common, but they ain’t natural. Pheasants originate in Asia. ↩︎
  9. There are currently seven states represented by a single congress member, Alaska, Delaware, Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Vermont, and Wyoming. ↩︎

Massachusetts

Tariffs

Massachusetts was not the first state settled by Europeans. The first was Florida, then New Mexico, then Virginia. 1 When the Mayflower finally arrived in Massachusetts in 1620, Jamestown was already celebrating its 13th anniversary.

Currier & Ives, Landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth, Mass., 1878, Library of Congress.

Massachusetts was, however, the first state to industrialize. Before industrialization, it had some other North American firsts. It had the first college, first newspaper, first witch hunt, first tea party . . . But industrialization was something different. Before the 1830s Massachusetts was pretty homogenous. It was white.2 It was English. It was Protestant. There were artisan craftsmen, farmers, merchants, and the extraction of lumber, quarried stone, and fish, but there wasn’t industry. Before the 19th century the principal Massachusetts manufactured good was rum.3

Beginning in the 1820s everything changed in Massachusetts. Wealthy Bostonians figured out that owning the means of production was better than not, and they invested heavily in factories and mills. Massachusetts became the nation’s principal producer of textiles–especially cotton cloth–and shoes, but everything was made there: buttons, rifles, musical instruments, candy, perfume . . . Farm laborers moved off the farm to factory towns like Lawrence and Lowell and Worcester. By 1865 only 13% of the labor force still worked in agriculture. And the jobs offered by industry brought immigrants from Europe and Canada. The Irish, the Italians, French Canadians, and Eastern Europeans, including large numbers of Jewish Eastern Europeans, came for the work.

Irish Immigrants at Constitution Wharf, Boston, Ballous Pictorial, October 31, 1857.

While things may have been worse back home, those manufacturing jobs weren’t the cat’s pajamas either. Pay was low, living conditions were squalid, hours were long. Children worked. If demand slowed–and from time to time demand slowed–workers were fired.

By the 1900s, Massachusetts was no longer principally English Protestant, and more than 100,000 new immigrants arrived each year. At the same time, industries started deserting Massachusetts. Textiles moved South. Shoemakers closed. You think the Great Depression was bad at your house? You shoulda been in Massachusetts. In 1933, the national rate of unemployment was 24.9%. Estimated unemployment in Massachusetts in 1932 was 34.8%.4

Later, led by technology, defense, and finance, the Massachusetts economy would revive. At $120,011 per annum, Massachusetts now has the second highest median household income by state. 5 Shoemaking, however, never recovered.6

Daniel Webster (1851), John C. Calhoun (1845) (portrait by George Peter Alexander Healy).

What has this got to do with tariffs? Beginning in the 1830s Massachusetts pushed tariffs as a means of protecting the state’s manufacturing. Daniel Webster, now largely remembered for his support of the Compromise of 1850,7 was also a shill for tariffs, and the first important sectional Constitutional crisis,8 the Nullification Crisis of 1832, was brought about because Massachusetts manufacturers were pitted against South Carolina planters. The South Carolinians wanted European goods, and they didn’t want to pay more for them to support factories in the North. Led by John C. Calhoun,9 South Carolinians decided that a state legislature had the right to nullify any federal law that they didn’t like, and South Carolinians proceeded to nullify the federally imposed tariffs. The then-President, Andrew Jackson, saved the union with a combination of threats and reduced tariffs.

I’m not certain how the tariffs affected the stock market.

Geography

Massachusetts Geography is simple. Everything west of Worcester is Western Massachusetts. Everything Worcester and east is the town you’re standing in. Nantucket sits out in the ocean, and everything further East is the Atlantic, at least until you get to England.

Now the first of December was covered with snow
So was the turnpike from Stockbridge to Boston
Now the Berkshires seemed dreamlike
On account of that frosting
With ten miles behind me and ten thousand more to go


James Taylor, Sweet Baby James, 1970.

When I was 14, two things happened. I was raising pigs in Texas in FFA,10 and James Taylor released Sweet Baby James. These two things may seem unrelated, but in FFA I had to memorize the breeds of pigs–Hampshires, Durocs, Chester Whites, and, of course, Berkshires. Until post-college I thought Taylor was singing about frosted dreamlike pigs, not a hilly region in Western Mass. Since I found out he wasn’t, I’ve sworn off learning any more about Massachusetts geography. I really liked the notion of frosted dreamlike pigs.

Dreamlike Berkshire pig, from Brett’s Colonists’ Guide, 1883, Auckland, New Zealand.

Dreamlike Berkshire Mountains, from Wikipedia, 2013.

Population

Massachusetts is the 16th most populous state at 7,001,399, which is roughly stable since the 2020 census population of 7,136,171. The non-Hispanic White population is 68.8%, Black is 9.6%, and Asians are 7.9%. Hispanics are 13.5% of the total. Boston is the largest city with a population of 653,833, and nine other cities have populations greater than 100,000.

Massachusetts urbanized early, right along with industrialization and immigration. By the end of the 19th century, more than 76% of its population lived in cities. As of 2024, the Boston-Cambridge-Newton statistical area had a population of 4,919,179, so slightly more than 70% of the Massachusetts population. Providence-Warwick is another 581,841 people, and Worcester 866,866. By population density, Massachusetts ranks third, with 899 people per square mile, but the population density of the Boston-Cambridge-Newton statistical area is 2,075 people per square mile. That’s dense.

Luckily they’ve got all those colleges and universities to keep things elevated. Otherwise they’d likely sink to the center of the earth.

In the first census of 1790, with a population of 378,787, Massachusetts was the fourth most populous state after Virginia (691,937), Pennsylvania (434,373), and North Carolina (393,751). By 1860, with a population of 1,231,066, Massachusetts trailed New York (3,880,735), Pennsylvania (2,906,215), Ohio (2,339,511), Illinois (1,711,951), and Indiana (1,350,428). At 10,554 square miles, it was also substantially smaller than the next smallest state, Indiana–with 36,419 square miles–so there was substantially less area to stack all those people. And states like Ohio were receiving substantial immigrants from Massachusetts.

Spenser

The Spenser novels by Robert B. Parker taught me everything I know about living in Massachusetts, and we re-listened to the first two novels in the series, The Godwulf Manuscript (1973) and God Save the Child (1974), while we were driving around looking for fish. They hold up well.

I was also very fond of The Scarlet Letter and Walden, and the Pequod sails from Nantucket. Massachusetts probably rivals Mississippi for important books per square mile, but The Scarlet Letter and Walden are probably a bit less informative about modern Massachusetts than the Spenser novels. For that matter, they’re probably less informative than Absalom, Absalom! remains about modern Mississippi.

Mary Hallock Foote, Hester Prynne before the stocks, 1878, James R. Osgood & Co., Boston.

Politics

Governors in antebellum Massachusetts were elected from time to time from various parties, including Federalist, Democratic-Republican, and Whig, but after the Whigs fell apart over abolition Massachusetts became predominately Republican and remained Republican from the Civil War until the 1930s. The Democrats made inroads by building coalitions with the Italians and Irish, and the first Irish mayors in Boston were Democrats. Patronage matters.11

Everything changed with Franklin Roosevelt and the Great Depression. Since the 1930s, Massachusetts has been predominately Democratic. The current governor is Democratic, though Republicans are well-represented among recent governors, including a long period from 1991 to 2007. Even with the diverse governors, Democrats predominated. Currently both U.S. senators and all of the congressional delegation are Democrats. The Massachusetts General Court–their quaint name for their state (quaintly called the commonwealth) legislature (quaintly called the general court)–is overwhelmingly Democratic.

In the 2024 presidential election, Kamala Harris defeated Donald Trump 61.22% to 36.02%. Trump carried no Massachusetts counties.

From Wikipedia.

Fish

Ah, the pickerel of Walden! . . . They are not green like the pines, nor gray like the stones, nor blue like the sky; but they have, to my eyes, if possible, yet rarer colors, like flowers and precious stones, as if they were the pearls, the animalized nuclei or crystals of the Walden water. 

Henry David Thoreau, Walden, The Pond in Winter.

Planning for Massachusetts, I thought seriously about trying to fish Walden Pond. There are apparently black bass and sunfish, and of course there are pickerel. But to fish Walden I would have needed to have a canoe delivered from Boston. It was complicated, so I gave it up. Simplicity! Simplicity! Simplicity!

We could also have fished the coast. There is famous striped bass fishing in Nantucket, Martha’s Vineyard, Cape Cod, and even Boston Harbor, but we’d fished for stripers and blues in Rhode Island, and there’s never a guarantee of me catching coastal fish. I had visited Massachusetts several times before, and I did not want to return just to fish. Over a couple of days, I can usually come up with one trout in decent trout water, and our friend Jim Litrum had emailed that the Swift River in southwest Massachusetts was his favorite place to fish. We followed Jim’s advice and fished the Swift.

The Swift is a tailwater, with fairly constant water flows and temperatures. It’s stocked with browns and rainbows, and has a native population of brook trout. To get to the Swift, it’s an easy 50-mile drive from the Hartford-Bradley Airport in Hartford, Connecticut. And of course, I thought, Southwestern Massachusetts should fish warmer in April than fishing for stripers on a boat off the coast. I wanted Massachusetts done, and I also wanted to be reasonably warm.

Pickerel (Lucius reticulus), From a Pond in Massachusetts, First Annual Report of the Commissioners of Fisheries, Game and Forests of the State of New York, 1896, facing p. 124, Wynkoop Hallenbeck Crawford Co., New York, New York, from the University of Washington Freshwater and Marine Image Bank.

  1. St. Augustine (1565), Jamestown (1607), Santa Fe (1610), These are more or less permanent settlements, so I’m ignoring Taos (the settlement of which seemed to come and go), and also ignoring the abandonment of Santa Fe during the Pueblo Rebellion. This is my footnote, so I get to do what I want. ↩︎
  2. This is not completely true. In 1641, Massachusetts became the first English colony in North America to legalize slavery–another first! Enslaved Africans were landed in Jamestown earlier, in 1619, but their status as slaves was not clear, and there were African slaves in St. Augustine even earlier. The Dutch brought slaves to New Netherland by 1626. African slavery was a global trade, and it’s enough to say that Massachusetts played its part, both as owners and particularly as slavers. by the 18th century Massachusetts’ African population was as much as 12% of its total, mostly used in rum production. ↩︎
  3. I think that’s right, but I haven’t double-checked. If it’s not right it should be. New England was the rum stop on the triangular trade that ran Molasses from the West Indies, rum from North America, and slaves from Africa. ↩︎
  4. Michigan had the highest unemployment in the nation, at 45.9%. Weirdly, in the 1930s there were no unemployment statistics kept by state, and state statistics were estimated much later by the Social Security Administration. ↩︎
  5. New Jersey is first at $124,487. Mississippi is last at $70,821. ↩︎
  6. Alden and some New Balance shoes are still made in Massachusetts. ↩︎
  7. The Compromise of 1850 prescribed how slavery would be decided in the new territories acquired from Mexico, and allowed slavery to spread beyond the existing slave states. It included stringent fugitive slave laws that required the return of fugitive slaves from free states. Webster’s reputation in his home state of Massachusetts was substantially damaged by his support of the Compromise. ↩︎
  8. A sectional crisis is a crisis pitting the interests of one section of the nation against another. The Civil War, for instance, was also an important sectional Constitutional crisis. Our current Constitutional crisis is not particularly sectional. ↩︎
  9. At the time, Calhoun was vice president, which seems to me like a conflict of interest. Calhoun was a hero of the South, and we keep our skiff in Port O’Connor, Calhoun County, Texas. ↩︎
  10. Future Farmers of America. ↩︎
  11. Allegedly among the important public jobs created by Boston Mayor John Fitzgerald, maternal grandfather of J.F.K., were watchmen to watch watchmen, tree climbers, and city watering crew inspectors. ↩︎

Happy New 2025!

We’re on the last leg, though I’m pretty sure that fish don’t have legs. Six states to go, and our plan is to finish the last six this year. New Jersey, Massachusetts, South Dakota, Nebraska, Wyoming, and Montana . . . We completed the South last year with Georgia and South Carolina, and the Southwest with Utah and Arizona. We’re saving Wyoming and Montana for last.

Nothing is planned, except a trip to Montana in September and then a few days at the Old Faithful Inn fishing in Yellowstone. I keep thinking I need to plan, but in January–on January 6 no less–it’s hard to have much faith in the future. What a black day.

I keep thinking that I should calculate things like how many miles we traveled, how many nights we spent, how much money we spent, and how many species of fish we’ve caught. Maybe I will, but not today. Today maybe I’ll think more about Wyoming. Wyoming is a good place to fish.

We won’t be the first people to catch a fish on the fly in each state, but we have earned some great stories, and we’ve met some great people. Someone said to me recently that when we finished we could start again.

God no.

Ohio

We’re going to Ohio and Michigan next week. Of our nine remaining states, I’ve never been to Ohio, Michigan, or South Dakota. Actually, I have been to Michigan, but I was only one. Sentience should matter, even in an election year.

Kris went to Ohio in May to birdwatch, to Magee Marsh. That’s a famous place for birdwatchers because of warblers, which are small, brightly colored, migratory, and hard to see. In a weird distortion of anglers’ obsession with the biggest fish, birders are often obsessed with the smallest birds.

On their way to Canada, Yucatan warblers will land–fall–in Galveston for a few hours after crossing 600 miles over the Gulf of Mexico. During the spring warbler season Kris will drive to Galveston almost daily to see if there’s a warbler fall, and when she doesn’t go to Galveston she’ll likely go to the Rice campus to see if there are birds there. Ohio’s Magee Marsh in the spring is another famous warbler resting spot, and they stage there before crossing Lake Erie to their summer grounds in Canada.

Birders stage there too.

Prothonotary warbler, Magee Marsh.

In the first half of the 19th century, lots of people staged in Ohio. The Old Northwest territory, what we’d now call the upper midwest, was our testing ground. In the Old Northwest we–and that’s the American We–finalized how we would deal with Native Americans, and it was in Ohio that we first forbade slavery in a new state constitution. If I recall correctly, the Ohio constitution also forbade new black immigrants after statehood, and our native American policy became beat ’em up and move ’em out, so we may not have worked things out to everyone’s satisfaction. Still, history is what it is, and our ancestors rarely batted much better than .260.

The one thing without doubt that we got right in Ohio was surveys. Modern grid surveys were developed in Ohio. Before Ohio, surveys were random affairs that followed natural features, and may or may not have overlapped prior surveys. After Ohio, surveys were standardized into grids comprised of townships, sections, and acres. It became the standard survey configuration for western expansion.

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1826 Survey Map, Ohio’s Western Reserve.

Gridded Ohio was a settlement magnet. In 1800, three years before statehood, Ohio had 45,365 residents. Ten years later its population had boomed (quintupled?) to 230,760. By 1820 it was over half a million. By 1850 there were nearly 2 million Ohioans. It continued to grow significantly each decade until the 1960s when its population growth flattened. It is still the seventh largest state with 11,785,935 residents.

Ohio was originally settled in three regions, with Southerners from Kentucky and Virginia concentrated along the southern border, and Yankees from New York and Massachusetts in northeast Ohio around what would be Cleveland. Everybody else apparently settled everyplace else.

Agricultural goods from Ohio were originally blocked from Eastern US markets by the Appalachians, but in 1825 the state issued bonds to build the Ohio and Erie Canal. The Canal opened Eastern markets for Ohio farmers through Lake Erie. The construction of the canal spurred both agriculture and industrialization.

The canal was quickly replaced by railroads, and Ohio became a railroad hub. Again, it was agricultural markets that drove the growth, but there was iron and coal available, and in support of railroad construction Ohio became an iron and steel producer. It produced rails and it produced agricultural implements. In early Ohio the two economies always seem to have moved together, farming and industry, in a combination that I guess always exists but rarely so blatantly. Ohioans didn’t just raise cattle, they tanned the hides. If Ohioans had raised cotton, they would have woven cotton cloth.

Canal Boat, Ohio and Erie Canal, 1880, National Park Service.

Booming Ohio produced at least seven major Union generals, Sheridan, Sherman, Custer, Garfield, McClellan, Rosecrans, and, of course, Grant. 313,180 Ohioans served in the Union army in the Civil War, third most after New York and Pennsylvania.

Between 1841 and 1923, Ohio produced eight U.S. Presidents: William Henry Harrison, U.S. Grant, Rutherford B. Hayes, James Garfield, Benjamin Harrison, William McKinley, William Taft, and Warren G. Harding. Two of the presidents, William Henry Harrison and Warren G. Harding, died of illness while in office. Two, Garfield and McKinley, were assassinated. In 1910, Taft was the first president to throw out a first pitch at a major league baseball game.

Ulysses Grant at Cold Harbor, 1864, Library of Congress.

U.S. Grant’s father worked in a tannery, as did John Brown’s father. As a young man Grant’s father lived with the Browns for two years, and Ulysses recalled that his father admired the Brown family’s commitment to abolition.

I admire Grant, and his reputation has gone through another revision in recent decades, largely because of Ron Chernow but others as well. I particularly like the Grant biography by Ronald White, American Ulysses. In the decades immediately following the Civil War and his presidency, Grant was ranked in the popular mind with Washington and Lincoln as one of the nation’s saviors, but then stuff happened. Grant came to be seen as a poor president and a second-rate general.

Personally, I think that Grant’s denigration ties back to the nation’s exhaustion at the end of Reconstruction and the conciliatory post-Reconstruction glorification of Robert E. Lee. In the popular mind if Grant was great, then Lee was not great. Lee was suddenly perceived as the better general, the nobler man, and Grant was seen as having done what anybody could have done and a failure as president. He was in the right place at the right time, but it was Grant who figured out how to destroy the Southern armies, and then had the nerve to carry it out. It was Grant who came closest to leading us through Reconstruction, and its failure wasn’t his, it was ours.

He was also a good man.

Julia Dent Grant, 1854.

He was a fine writer, and his autobiography, written at the urging of Mark Twain as Grant was dying of throat cancer, should be required reading. He produced a passel of great quotes, but one of my favorites was recorded by his wife, Julia, who had crossed eyes. She thought that she should have them surgically corrected, but in the 1860s it would have been an experimental and possibly dangerous procedure. She thought though that Grant as a public figure would be ashamed of her defect, and that she should take the risk.

Grant’s response, as recorded by Julia, “Did I not see you and fall in love with you with those same eyes? I like them just as they are . . . I might not like you half so well with any other eyes.”

What a sweet thing to say, and with Grant it is completely in character.

After the Civil War Ohio industry expanded beyond its agriculture roots. Steel was forged in Ohio. Along with Michigan, cars were made in Ohio, and car parts were made in Ohio. Tires came from Goodyear, Goodrich, Firestone, or General, all of which were Ohio companies. Appliances were made in Ohio, and KitchenAid, Amana, and VitaMix still manufacture in Ohio.

After California and Texas, Ohio remains the third largest manufacturing state economy, but manufacturing growth is flat. During the 70s traditional industrial jobs declined in Ohio (as they did in Michigan and Indiana), and beginning in the 90s it suffered China shock. Tariffs have not increased American manufacturing jobs, and the new jobs that are created tend to favor the college-educated, where Ohioans lag. Traditional manufacturing wages also lag behind inflation. It’s a rough world out there, and the Upper Midwest has suffered.

Geography and Weather

North of Ohio is Lake Erie on the east and Michigan on the west. Due west of Ohio is Indiana. To the southeast is West Virginia, née Virginia, and to the south is Kentucky, both bordered by the Ohio River. Southern settlers from Kentucky and Virginia came early and often–JD Vance’s Kentucky family is nothing new. To the east is Pennsylvania, and settlers from the northeast got to Ohio through Pennsylvania.

There are lots of Ohio rivers and streams, and 15 Ohio rivers are designated scenic or wild and scenic rivers. In the northern third of the state the rivers generally flow north into Lake Erie. The southern rivers generally flow south into the Ohio, and then into the Mississippi.

Ohio Lakes and Rivers, GIS Geography.com, https://gisgeography.com/ohio-lakes-rivers-map/.

Ohio has some beaches on Lake Erie, and of course it has Magee Marsh, but mostly Ohio is flat or rolling plains. Ranked by elevation change, Ohio is our ninth flattest state, with a low elevation of 455 feet and a high of 1,548 feet. By elevation change Ohio is flatter than Kansas.

From north to south, east to west, weather varies across the state, but not much, and precipitation stays pretty equally spread from month to month, place to place. There ain’t no annual monsoons. The heaviest average precipitation is in May, three inches in Cleveland and four in Cincinnati. It rains least in January, but in January in Ohio it snows.

In July there’s a pretty good chance of muggy conditions. Average highs in July are in the mid- to low 80s, and lows in January are in the low 20s. It’s cold in Ohio in winter, but at least to this Houstonian it seems to be relatively mild in summer.

Population

From 1810 until 1860, Ohio grew by 913%, from 230,760 to 2,108,751. From 1860 to 1960 it grew by another 314%, to 9,706,397. It continues to grow, if not so fast, and its current population is 11,799,448.

Population is widely distributed, with concentrated urban areas interspersed across the state among relatively rural areas. The urban concentrations make Ohio the 10th densest state, with 282.3 people per square mile.

JimIrwin, 2020 Ohio population density map, Wikimedia Commons.

It’s an ethnically diverse state, with 61% Anglo, 12% black alone, 19% hispanic, and 6% Asian. Ten percent of Ohioans are two or more races.

Politics

Ohioans are politically a wee bit schizoid, though currently they are solidly Republican, and Donald Trump is projected to carry Ohio easily. In the last two presidential elections, Ohioans voted for Donald Trump, in 2020, 53.27% for Trump to 45.24% for Biden, and in 2016, 51.31% for Trump to 43.24% for Hillary Clinton. On the flip side, in both 2008 and 2012, Barack Obama carried Ohio. Perhaps the most interesting thing about the 2020 and 2016 elections in Ohio is the increased turnout: in 2016 turnout was a weary 66.48%, but in 2020 it increased to 74%. As these things go, 74% is massive turnout.

We will be there in the middle of the 2024 election season, but just like Texas I don’t expect there to be any serious presidential electioneering going on (unlike Michigan, which is an important swing state). There is a US senate race happening, with the Democratic incumbent Sherrod Brown in a race with the Trump-supported Bernie Moreno. Brown is considered vulnerable, but the current polling shows Brown with a comfortable lead of 4-6%.

Ohio state legislature, 2024, from Wikipedia.

All of the statewide elected officials in Ohio are Republican, and both the state house and senate are heavily Republican. Ohio voters have approved a state constitutional amendment protecting access to abortion, though it’s not clear whether Republican courts will enforce it. Like I said, Ohio is politically a wee bit schizoid.

Fish

Ohio has a lot of rivers and streams, and of course it has Lake Erie. The original gamefish of the Great Lakes was the lake trout, but when canals opened the Great Lakes to the Atlantic a combination of overfishing and invasive sea lamprey wiped out all but remnants of the lake trout populations.

Hudson, Charles B., Lake Trout, Review of the Salmonid Fishes of the Great Lakes, Bulletin of the Bureau of Fisheries, 1911, Washington, D.C., Government Printing Office, from the Freshwater and Marine Image Bank, University of Washington.

Like salmon, sea lamprey move into freshwater streams to spawn, and were finally brought under control beginning in 1958 by the application of Lampricide in their natal streams. By the 1980s though merchant ships had dumped zebra and quagga mussels into the lakes with released ballast water. The invasive mussels took over, severely damaging the food chain. Then blue crabs started eating the mussels (as did endangered lake sturgeon). I have no idea where the blue crabs came from, but the mussels are at least now somewhat controlled by natural predators, and there are serious recovery efforts for lake trout throughout the Great Lakes.

Meanwhile fish and game folk discovered Pacific steelhead as a replacement gamefish for the lake trout. I gather that the steelhead populations are not self-reproducing, and that there’s massive stocking every year, but from New York to Illinois the internal clocks of the stocked steelhead decide each winter that it’s time to head out of the Great Lakes and up the local rivers to spawn. Spawning steelhead being a great gamefish, it is a flyfishing bonanza. My inner Puritan however is dubious about fishing for a non-native stocked fish that doesn’t really belong where I’d be fishing.

So out of pure perversity that’s not what we’re doing.

Ohio being in the native range of smallmouth, that’s what we’ll fish for, with a guide from Mad River Outfitters in Columbus. We’ve also fished for smallmouth in Virginia, in the Shenandoah (where smallmouth are not native), in Illinois near Chicago, and in Indiana. I’m always excited to fish for black bass of any kind, but mostly I hope to see no lamprey, sea or otherwise. That’s one hideous animal, and I’m supportive of mass application of Lampricide.

Small-Mouth Black Bass, New York Commissioners of Fisheries, Game and Forests, Fifth Annual Report, 1900, Albany, New York, James B. Lyon, from the Freshwater and Marine Image Bank, University of Washington.