Norwood and Bill

I read some books to get ready for fishing in Arkansas. Two stood out, Norwood by Charles Portis and My Life by Bill Clinton. I was going to read something by Dave Whitlock, but then I found out that Dave Whitlock isn’t from Arkansas. He should be from Arkansas, he’s the best known fly fisher from that part of the world, but he’s from Oklahoma, and still lives in the Oklahoma Ozarks. It’s an easy mistake to make; Eastern Oklahoma is pretty much Western Arkansas, but there’s a line and I will not cross it. Plus that’ll make this post a bit shorter.

I can’t find any indication that the other two writers, Portis (author of True Grit) and Clinton (author of My Life), didn’t fish, or at least didn’t fish enough to write about it. Clinton was also the 42nd President of the United States, and the last President before the last President to be impeached by the House of Representatives. I don’t think he fly fished, and he wasn’t impeached for lying about fishing.

From Pinterest, Oyster bamboo fly rod built for Jimmie Carter, with presidential seal.

The Bushes fished, and Jimmie Carter famously fished and had a couple of exquisite cane rods built for him by Bill Oyster. Herbert Hoover wrote a book about fly fishing, in which he remarked that “Presidents have only two moments of personal seclusion. One is prayer; the other is fishing — and they cannot pray all the time!” He also said that fishing teaches an important lesson to Presidents, that the forces of nature discriminate for no man. President Trump played golf, and taught us that the rules of golf were more bendable than the forces of nature, but he did tell some extraordinary fish stories, only not about fishing.

President Obama fly fished and seemed to enjoy it. He certainly made an elegant presentation on the river. That’s one well-dressed fly fisherman.

White House Archives, Barrack Obama and Dan Vermillion, East Gallatin River, Montana, August 14, 2009.

Portis died in 2020, in Little Rock, so there’s another thing to blame on 2020. Portis is one of those authors who everyone is supposed to read, but who no one much ever actually reads. I’ve written before about my near-lifelong fixation with True Grit, and if you want to read Portis without cracking a book, just watch the Coen Brothers film version. The dialogue and narration seems almost word for word from the book.

Besides True Grit, Portis wrote four other novels for no one to read: Norwood (1966), Dogs of the South (1979), Masters of Atlantis (1985), and Gringoes (1991). Except for True Grit, his novels were all out of print for a time. I’ve read Norwood and Dogs of the South, which lets me feel superior to those who haven’t read Norwood or Dogs of the South, but inferior to those who have also read Masters of Atlantis and Gringoes. I’m sure they’re excellent, and maybe one day.

Portis was not a recluse, though he has that reputation. He was apparently a regular in Little Rock beer joints and approachable for strangers, and at the climax of True South Paul Theroux finds Portis in a Little Rock bar–at least that’s how I remember it. Still, Portis wasn’t much shakes as a self-promoter, and while he began his novel-writing in a fishing cabin, and apparently had his own avocations (notably cars), there are no reports of Portis fishing. He may have fished all the time, but unlike yours truly he didn’t feel the need to tell people about it.

As for cars, all of the three Portis novels I’ve read were odysseys, road novels (even if True Grit exchanges a Buick for the Mattie’s horse, Little Blackie). The hero sets out and then returns home changed, except none of Portis’s heroes changes much. Part of what amuses is their immutability, regardless of what crazy weirdness they create. When she gets back to Yell County, Mattie Ross is still a Presbyterian avenging angel and tax accountant, though she is less one arm, and though she has developed familial loyalty for an old man who rode with Quantrill.

Norwood is a road novel too. Norwood goes to New York to collect $70 and to deliver a prostitute, who he doesn’t know is a prostitute, and some stolen cars, which he doesn’t know are stolen cars. When he returns he is still Norwood. Technically Norwood is from Texas, not Arkansas, but it’s just-across-the-border East Texas. Except for his Korean stint in the Marines, and an interlude working for the New York Herald-Tribunein New York and London, Portis lived in Arkansas. He always wrote about Arkansas, and leaving Arkansas, and coming back to Arkansas, even if it’s the Arkansas part of Texas. As the narrator says in Dogs of the South, “A lot of people leave Arkansas and most of them come back sooner or later. They can’t quite achieve escape velocity.”

I doubt that I will ever see the movie version of Norwood, and I have absolutely no clue what role Joe Namath played. With the combination of Namath and Glen Campbell, I suspect that the acting is excruciating.

The character Norwood is honest and marginal, but it is the delight of the novel that notwithstanding all of the bad things that could happen to Norwood–and really bad stuff could happen–nothing ever does. There is a Twainish insistence that things turn out all right, even when a Faulkneresque apocalypse may be more realistic. Norwood finds love on a Greyhound bus, rescues a chicken, and recovers his $70. When I read the novel, Norwood’s final fate made me immensely happy, as does the fate of the chicken. I guess this is a spoiler, but when you get to the end of Norwood and he’s home and the axe hasn’t fallen, it’s ok, it’s more than ok, it’s great. Norwood the character may be hidden away in the Arkansas part of Texas, but he’s authentic and honest, and authentic and honest shines.

The other Arkansas book I read, My Life by Bill Clinton, is also a road novel. Mr. Clinton is born in Hope (not far from El Dorado where Mr. Portis was born), then moves to sin city, Hot Springs (which really was sin city in its heyday), then to Georgetown and Yale (not to be confused with Yell County) and Fayetteville and Little Rock and onward and upward. The book did pretty well when it came out, selling 2.3 million copies, but I suspect that’s because everybody bought it for the sex scenes. There aren’t any, at least in the book. There is a detailed description of political maneuvering at Arkansas Boys’ State. At 1000+ pages, it’s a little long for most folks, but Clinton is a talkative guy talking about two of his favorite subjects, Bill Clinton and politics, and he’s a readable writer, with an eye for detail, then some more detail, then some more detail, then he’ll add in a little detail. He never does tell us what we really want to know. Like I said, there are no sex scenes.

Just like Portis, whenever now that I think of the Clintons, I think of Paul Theroux’s Deep South. Theroux is a bit obsessed with the Clintons. He finds them a basketful of deplorables, but for none of the reasons one might think. Theroux compares parts of the South, particularly the Delta, to Africa’s poorest places, Third World poor, devastatingly poor, irredeemably poor, and he’s right, they are. He was angry that the Clintons–at least one of whom had deep ties to Arkansas and the South–had abandoned Southern poverty after their road trip to Washington. He is angry that the Clintons achieved exit velocity. The Clintons became citizens of the wide world, but no longer citizens of Arkansas, and in Theroux’s mind Arkansas had as much need for them as anyone.

I do suspect that if I were going to cast Joe Namath in a movie, My Life would be a better choice than Norwood.

Official portrait, Bill Clinton, 1993.

On the flip side, notwithstanding conspiracy theories, the Clintons didn’t kill anybody or have anybody killed, and I suspect that much of modern Arkansas, Trump’s Arkansas, would be decidedly hostile if the Clintons lived there. It’s notable that when one Southern President, Jimmie Carter, returned home and became a moral light, his state voted for President Biden. Nobody much argues that Mr. Clinton is a moral light, so maybe that sort of thing only goes so far, and maybe Mr. Carter and the recent Georgia elections are unrelated. It is odd that while Mr. Clinton arguably oversaw our longest period of sustained national economic growth and Mr. Carter’s presidency was an economic failure, it is President Carter who is most admired. It’s not all about the money.

I will say though that the part of My Life about the politics of Arkansas Boy’s State is a dilly.

Arkansas

Arkansas seems to sit on the margins, out of sight and out of mind for most of us. Oklahoma, its neighbor to the west, has the complex history of Indian Territory to ponder, while Tennessee to the east can can always fall back on music. Texas and Louisiana to the south are their own myths. Maybe Missouri is similar, but with both the St. Louis Cardinals and the Kansas City Royals, it seems like a different world. If Arkansas were part of a family, it would be the younger brother who never quite outgrew his own self-destruction. It’s the brother with the hip flask, jobless, who spent his last dollar on a half-wild horse and a half-broken pistol. He’s the brother who shows up for Thanksgiving already contrite, but never really sorry.

Over the Martin Luther King Holiday, we drove to Arkansas, to the Ozarks. It wasn’t a fishing trip. It could have been a fishing trip, the weather was ok, but it was planned so that when I wrote the report on our Arkansas fish, I wouldn’t have to say that we didn’t go to the Crystal Bridges Museum. We made it to Crystal Bridges, and for a short stop for lunch in Hot Springs, and then came home.

Arkansas is relatively poor (currently ranked 47th in household income, trailing Mississippi and West Virginia, but ahead of Louisiana and New Mexico), and now overwhelmingly Republican. Arkansas voted 62% for Trump in 2020, and all of the Biden counties were located in the Delta, or near enough.

Tyler Kutzbach, from Wikipedia.

The Arkansas population is still pretty binary. An Arkansan is probably black or white, and more likely white than black. As of the 2010 census, 77% of the roughly 3 million population was white, while 15% was black. That’s not a very true picture though. Chicot County in the Southeast Arkansas Delta has a white population of 4,733 and a black population of 5,861. A bit further north along the Mississippi, in Crittenden County–West Memphis–the white population is 21,763 and the black population is 23,789. Flip to our destination in the far northeast, Benton County, the white population is 227,609 and the black population is 4,359. Cut to the chase: Western Arkansas is white, the Delta isn’t. According to the online Encyclopedia of Arkansas, about 100 sundown towns (and three sundown counties) existed in Western Arkansas into the 70s.

No malaria, no mosquitoes, no Negroes. Siloam Springs is clearly quite the place.

The Delta black population is a slavery remnant, brought to Arkansas for cotton. If the definition of a functional economy is an economy that provides a decent living standard and opportunity for its participants, the Delta was always a dysfunctional economy, but after World War II, as agriculture converted from labor intense to mechanized, the Delta, both in Arkansas and across the river in Mississippi, brought dysfunction to high art. Most of Arkansas’s poorest counties are located along or near the Mississippi. Post-World War II, mechanization replaced much of agricultural labor, and in the Delta no new industries provided new sources of jobs. Until the Civil Rights Act, Delta planters controlled significant political power in the state, and it wasn’t in their interest to spend tax money on education or economic development–education and economic development would challenge control of labor. Since the 1920s the largest political question in Arkansas was, as often as not, not how to fund schools but how (and whether) to pay for road improvements.

About 70% of the population of Arkansas is Protestant, which includes a vast festering range of denominational and doctrinal disagreement. Only in such places do things like drinkin’ and dancin’ and playing the pipe organ in church still seem like the major philosophical questions of the age, and the principal query among decent folk is whether you’re Baptist, Methodist, or Church of Christ, or maybe even Evangelical (though that’s skirting the edge of decency).

The United States purchased Arkansas from France in 1803, as part of the Louisiana Purchase. As with most such New World land acquisitions, the indigenous Caddos, Osage, and Quapaws weren’t consulted. By 1836, there was sufficient American population–30,000 in 1830 and 97,000 in 1840 –to have achieved statehood. I had some ancestors there by 1836, a couple of pair of many greats grandfathers and grandmothers, but like a lot of Arkansans they don’t appear to have been particularly successful. One pater died young in 1850, and the other was in Texas by 1846. It is so common for white North Texans’ ancestors to have passed through Arkansas, that Ancestry recognizes a distinct DNA group, West Tennessee, Arkansas, and Northeast Texas Settlers. According to Ancestry, them’s my people.

Arkansas Territory, 1819, Arkansas Digital Archive

In the War, as part of the Union push to control the Mississippi, the Arkansas Confederacy was dealt with and survived only in the southwestern corner of the state, with the capital at Washington, 33 miles from Texarkana. In a later stage of the War, the Little Rock Nine were escorted into Central High in Little Rock in 1957.

Along with the Little Rock Nine being escorted into Central High, perhaps the most enduring image of Arkansas is the Arkansas Traveler/Lil’ Abner hillbilly. Lil’ Abner was not clearly from Arkansas, he hailed from Dogpatch, USA, but did anyone doubt that the Ozarks was his home? As for the Arkansas Traveler

Oh, once upon a time in Arkansas,
An old man sat in his little cabin door
And fiddled at a tune that he liked to hear,
A jolly old tune that he played by ear.

Edward Payson Washbourne, The Meeting Between the Traveler and the Squatter, 1856.

Hillbilly is not a flattering designation, combining squalor, meanness, poverty, and ignorance, though The Arkansas Traveller does allow the old man superior practicality along with tunefulness. “Neighbor, why don’t you fix that roof?” “I can’t fix it now ’cause it’s raining, and when it ain’t raining it don’t need fixing.” In the modern age you can toss in the assumptions of opioid addiction and meth.

In recent years, Arkansas points to three corporations as signs of economic change, Walmart, Tyson Foods, and J.B. Hunt Transport Services, all located in Northeast Arkansas. I can’t judge whether cheap goods, cheap chicken, and big rigs is the world on a platter for Arkansas, but it can’t hurt. I will say that Tyson produces the best commercial bacon, Wright Brand, and when I don’t cure my own it’s my go-to.

Tourism also plays a part in Arkansas’s economy, and Western Arkansas, up the Ouchitas to the Ozarks, is beautiful. All those bad things you can say about Arkansas? Western Arkansas is beautiful, truly, spectacularly beautiful.

Back to the new Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art. Our drive up the Ouchitas to the Ozarks wasn’t a fishing trip, exactly, though we did take rods, the weather was good, and we took a quick look at the White River. It was more of a pre-fishing trip, so that we wouldn’t have to say we’d never been to Crystal Bridges. The Museum collection is a good survey of important American art, but nothing in itself to drive 600 miles for. The real draw is the setting and the building, designed by Moshe Safdie. Together they’re magnificent. Crystal Bridges was founded by Alice Walton, Sam Walton’s daughter, in 2011, and there is a bit of a Medici feel to the enterprise. Here are some of the principal donors:

There’s something to be said for cheap goods, cheap chicken, and big rigs.

Tennessee and North Carolina packing lists

It’s hard to get excited about follow-up for a trip that’s a month gone, particularly with nothing coming up on the horizon. I guess right now I’m more interested in trying to remember how to play an Am7b5 on the guitar, and why it’s likely as not to be followed by a D7b9 (which I also can’t remember how to play). The days are just too busy to be bothered much by writing. Or reading. Or much of anything.

What We Forgot, What We Lost

The big effort of the trip was was the night we camped in Mississippi, which required taking loads of stuff, but I’ve already written about that. What we forgot to pack though was important: we forgot trash bags. It’s hard to camp without trash bags.

We did remember face masks and hand sanitizer, but I guess that’s a given in 2020.

For the first time ever I don’t think we lost anything. After we got home I even found the missing sock. How many times do you actually find the missing sock?

Where We Didn’t Go — Tennessee

I’ve spent a lot of time in Tennessee, in Nashville and Memphis and even in Knoxville. I really wanted to go guitar shopping in Nashville, but we didn’t have the time, and it’s also not the time. The virus was spiking in Tennessee, and while I might take a risk for a guitar, it was unfair to share that risk with Kris. Anyway I’ve shopped for guitars in Nashville before.

I also wanted to visit the area around Sevierville and Pigeon Forge because some of my ancestors settled there, and because of Dollywood. We didn’t make it. Before we settled on the South Holston River Lodge we had tried to get a reservation at Blackberry Farm, which is the spiritual home of the Garden and Gun South. Apparently we would have had to make the reservation considerably earlier than the month before, but I suspect the fishing at the South Holston River Lodge was better..

We didn’t go to Dollywood, but last week we listened to the podcast, Dolly Parton’s America. It’s brilliant, and almost made up for missing Dollywood.

Where We Didn’t Go — North Carolina

We went to no restaurants in Asheville, which I suspect is a criminal offense in most jurisdictions, but there you are. It’s 2020.

Like Tennessee, I’ve spent some time in North Carolina before, but I’ve never made it to Eastern North Carolina. I’d like to have seen the Outer Banks.

Anecdote of the Jar, Wallace Stevens

I have worried about this poem since high school, and I kept thinking about it on our drive:

I placed a jar in Tennessee,
And round it was, upon a hill.
It made the slovenly wilderness
Surround that hill.

I came back from the trip and started reading critical studies of the poem, about meaning (or lack thereof), and they didn’t know what it was about either. It’s one of Stevens’ most famous, and hence one of the best known 20th century poems, but it is about as much of an enigma as why I wake at three every morning. From time to time I decide I do know what it’s about, and if it weren’t for that “slovenly” I’d have a pretty good explanation, but whatever I decide I later decide that’s not quite the thing either.

I have a suspicion, just a suspicion, that Anecdote of the Jar and Dolly Parton’s My Tennessee Mountain Home are sort of about the same thing, but that Wallace Stevens wasn’t as sweet of a soul as Dollie Parton. I can’t really speak to their relative merits as poets, though Dolly is prettier, and has made more money, and she never got into a drunken brawl with Earnest Hemingway in a Key West bar. Not that I know of anyway.

Croquet

Croquet is a big deal in Western North Carolina, and our friends Brian and Jane took us to their club in Cashiers to play croquet. If I’d have played club croquet before I started fishing, I might not be fly fishing now. That is almost a perfect game. Kris and Brian beat Jane and me by one stroke, but Brian cheated by being good.

Tennessee Playlist

There is so much music in Tennessee. Country of course, but the blues, rock & roll, gospel, blue grass, Americana, soul . . . I had put together a playlist for Memphis a few years ago, so I added some country to that. Do you know how hard it is to add some country when you’re talking about Tennessee? You could never add enough Country.

On my phone I had 20 hours and 42 minutes of music, 395 songs. Here are some highlights.

  • Marc Cohn, Walking in Memphis. This song gets a bad rap, but just try not to feel a little elated when he sings “man I am tonight.”
  • Paul Simon, Graceland. There’s also a version by Willie Nelson.
  • B.B. King. All of it. And Albert King. And Memphis Minnie. There’s a lot of blues that came through Memphis.
  • Valerie June. I love Valerie June. I hope she’s still recording.
  • Elvis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, Jerry Lee Louis,, Roy Orbison. There’s a lot of rock and roll that came through Memphis.
  • Bob Dylan, Stuck Inside of Mobile. Maybe the best Dylan song. Also Nashville Skyline.
  • Little Feat, Dixie Chicken. One of the things Kris brought to our marriage was Little Feat records, and Dixie Chicken is one of the great story songs.
  • W.C. Handy. Louis Armstrong Plays W.C. Handy.
  • Otis Redding, Sam Cook, Sam & Dave, Booker T. & the M.G.’s, Isaac Hayes. Next to Motown, Memphis was the sound of 60s soul.
  • This is cheating, but I downloaded the soundtrack of Ken Burns’ Country Music.
Patsy Cline, Publicity Photo for Four Star Records, March 1957.
  • Selections by Dolly Parton, Porter Wagner, Kitty Wells, Merle Haggard, George Jones, Loretta Lynne, Conway Twitty, Lefty Frizell, Patsy Cline, Ernest Tubb, Chet Atkins, Jim Reeves, Roy Acuff, Ray Price, Roger Miller, Kris Kristofferson. This list could go on and on, but I think if music was ever tied to a place, country music is tied to Nashville. Maybe country music made Nashville.
  • The Lovin’ Spoonful, Nashville Cats. When I was a kid, this was a song I’d feed a jukebox for. I sure am glad I got a chance to say a word about the music and the mothers from Nashville.

North Carolina Playlist

A North Carolina playlist isn’t as overwhelming as Tennessee, but it’s good, and maybe more eccentric.

  • Doc Watson
  • Sara Hickman
  • Lester Flatt & Earl Scruggs
  • Bill Monroe
  • James Taylor
  • The Avett Brothers
  • Charlie Daniels
  • Elizabeth Cotton
  • Carolina Chocolate Drops
  • Thelonius Monk
  • Roberta Flack
  • Max Roach
  • John Coltrane
Bernard Gotfryd, Thelonius Monk at the Village Gate, New York City, 1968,  Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division Washington, D.C. 20540 USA http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/pp.print

That’s a pretty great list of singer songwriters, bluegrass musicians, and most surprising, jazz greats. With Tennessee, you can hear links between blues and country and rock and roll and gospel and “Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay.” It’s hard to hear much of a link between John Coltrane and Doc Watson. It is a fine list though.

Nymphing, North Carolina, July 31-August 1, 2020

Last November I mentioned to a colleague that we were trying to catch a fish in each state, and he invited us to their house in North Carolina, in the heart of North Carolina trout country. Their house is near Sapphire, which is eight miles east of Cashiers in the Appalachians in Western North Carolina, about an hour and a half southwest of Asheville. I suspect it was country once populated with hidden stills, but now there are probably more cute shops than stills. It’s pretty wild though, and their house was by far the nicest fly lodge we’ve stayed in. It was just as well it was their house, because otherwise we couldn’t have afforded a three nights’ stay.

Brian booked our guides through a local fly shop, Brookings Anglers, and it may be the prettiest fly shop I’ve seen, not that I’m overly impressed by pretty fly shops. I wouldn’t suggest driving more than a couple of hundred miles to visit. In addition to me and Kris, Brian and Jane had invited other work colleagues and their spouses, and we fished together one day and then the next day Kris and I floated the Tuckasegee River, the Tuck, while they went elsewhere.

The first day, the day we fished together, the Brookings’ guides had access to private water, which was small enough that I won’t give the name; Brookings has the access if you’re interested, and if you’re within three or four hundred miles of Brookings you really should drop by. The problem with the private water was that it was artificially loaded with huge trout that weren’t wild trout. The good thing about the private water was that it was artificially loaded with huge trout that weren’t wild trout. Sometimes that’s just fun. We caught huge trout.

We fished with Roger Lowe, who may be a bit younger than me, but who Brian described as the dean of North Carolina guides. Roger has the peculiar fate of looking exactly like my friend Jim from Austin, who I’ve talked baseball with for the last 20-odd years. Jim was a college pitcher and high school coach, and is a wee bit opinionated about baseball. Sometimes Jim is a bit brusk. Here is a recent response by Jim to something stupid:

Go the fuck away . . . . Away.

Which for Jim is pretty measured. In appearance Roger could be Jim’s twin brother. From the time we started fishing I expected Roger to invite me to take my stupid opinions and fuck off. I don’t even know if Roger follows baseball, but I will tell you there is nothing more charming than a guy with a North Carolina accent announcing that we’re going to Euro-nymph, and who then never once responded with expletives in exchange for my casting. If Roger and Jim are long-lost twins, Roger is definitely the more civil of the two.

The private water we fished wasn’t very big, maybe 20 feet across, and its runs are crammed under every overhanging branch in North America. Most of the day I fished Roger’s 10-foot Hardy two weight, with a long mono leader, 15 feet of 20 pound leader at the butt, 5 feet of 15 pound, and then a two foot stretch of Rio Two Tone Indicator Tippet material, finished off with 4 or 5 feet of tippet. What X tippet? I can’t remember, but there are plenty of descriptions of long mono leaders around the internet. I know this: Rio two-tone indicator is the bomb. Alternating hot pink and fluorescent yellow, it looks like the love child of fishing line and Christmas candy. The fourth time I went back to Brookings–not that I’m overly impressed by a pretty fly shop–I bought a spool. I’ll probably never use it, but I sure do like it.

All I really fished was the leader, and I don’t think I ever once had the fly line off the reel. The long 10-foot rod is for better line control in drifts, but I’d never heard why for tight-line nymphing two- and three-weight rods are preferred to the usual four- or five-weights. Roger explained that when a fish takes the fly, if it feels any resistance it will immediately spit the hook. The two weight’s limber tip delays resistance long enough to set.

As for casting, it didn’t matter. We weren’t casting far. With a 25-foot leader on a 10-foot rod on a 20-foot stream there just isn’t very far to cast. My best casts involved letting leader stretch out on the water behind, then using the water tension to haul the line forward, quartering upriver. I wasn’t much good at it. Most of my casts were big overhand lobs that ended with the fly hung in a tree. The flies themselves were weighted, or maybe Roger added weight, but we were fishing with all the classic flies: mop flies, squirmy worms, I think I fished an egg pattern at some point. Forget the fly though, what was fun was high-sticking the leader through the runs, and keeping enough of the Christmas candy indicator out of the water so that I could see any hesitation. It was mesmerizing, and completely successful. I am now one of those cosmopolitan fly fishers who has Euro-nymphed.

Late in the day my shoulder told me that high-sticking might be a young man’s game, but I kept at it. Like I said, leading that tight-lined bit of colored fly leader through a run was mesmerizing. Plus we caught fish. Roger was pretty entertaining too. Roger told a great story about a client who complained about rain on her fishing trip. Roger told her that sometimes you had to put up with a bit of rain. She was in the back seat, and he said she leaned over the seat, got in his face, and told him that he should shut up, that she could complain all she wanted.

Roger said that he shut up.

The story I won’t share is our next day’s guide’s, Matt Canter, who is manager and a part-owner of Brookings. Did I mention Brookings is a really pretty fly shop? Anyway, the story involves how Matt came to manage and then own part of Brookings. If you’re within four or five hundred miles of the shop, you should visit and get Matt to share the story. It’s a great story, and a really pretty fly shop.

What wasn’t so pretty was that day’s fishing. We were fishing small nymphs under big dry flies, dry dropper rigs, which wasn’t what was wrong. Here is what went wrong with that day’s fishing:

Kris had the greatest day fishing ever.

She caught brown trout, she caught rainbow trout, at some point she started catching nice-sized brookies. After her first brookie I mentioned to Matt that Kris had an Appalachian grand slam and Matt said yeah, but then a few minutes later Kris caught a smallmouth. Matt, whose gloat was very unbecoming, said that now she’s really got an Appalachian grand slam.

Why was Matt gloating? What was I catching? This.

Matt said it’s a kind of sucker, known locally as a knottyhead. That picture’s of a big one. After we got home I searched around on the internet a bit, and never could quite match the fish to a genus and species. For all I know God created them that day just to keep me humble. Kris and I would fish the same fly, same depth, same drift, and Kris would catch a lovely wild brown or a tarpon up from the Gulf or a steelhead come south on vacation and I would catch . . . a knottyhead. Ok, they weren’t the only fish I caught. I caught some nice browns and some nice rainbows, and even got a brown on the dry fly once, but I must have caught 20 knottyheads, one after another, while Kris was having the fishing day of her life.

I said Kris didn’t really have a slam until she caught a knottyhead. She immediately caught her one and only knottyhead. Next time I’m in Brookings I’m complaining to the manager.

Not that I’m jealous.

That night over drinks we were comparing our day’s fishing, and somebody asked if any of us had ever had a double, a fish on each fly?

I answered. “Kris has. Today. Twice.” As my friend Jim would say, a double-fucking-double.

I could have had a double if knottyheads just took dries. And she didn’t land both fish, either time. So there.

Not that I’m jealous.