Category: Northwest

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Mt. Olympus, Rain, and Bunny Leeches

Gurling, Mike. National Park Service, Mount Meany (right) and Mount Olympus, Olympic National Park, September, 1990.

Next Thursday we go to the Olympic Peninsula for steelhead. The Olympic Mountains cut through the center of the Peninsula, and their name evolved from the highest peak, 7,980 feet, which was dubbed Mount Olympus in 1778 by English captain John Meares. He thought the peak looked godly, or at least Greek. The name Olympus not only stuck, it spread to the mountain range and finally to the Peninsula.

It must have been a sunny day when Captain Meares saw Mount Olympus, because he actually saw it. Here’s next week’s forecast for Quinault, Washington, where we’ll stay. Quinault is on the rainy west side of the mountains.

Snow, sun, snow, rain, rain, rain, rain, sun, rain. There’s not a lot of promise for visibility. We will fish Saturday, Sunday, and Monday, but I’m thinking we should take the day off Sunday to sunbathe. The mountains create a rain shadow on the northeast side of the peninsula, so parts of the Peninsula have as little as 15 inches of rain a year, but we fish in the wet west. You’ve heard Seattle is wet and rainy? Well this is from whence those rumors arise. Drip, drip, drip.

At Quinault it rains 189.7 days per year, and winter when the steelhead come is the wettest season. The Quinault Steelheads could never actually complete a 162-game baseball season without a domed stadium. At Quinault average annual rainfall is 122 inches, 10 feet of rain each year, compared to a US average of 38 inches, plus there’s another 7 inches of snow. The average monthly winter rainfall for the Hoh Rainforest valley is 18.33 inches. The average annual rainfall for Lubbock, Texas, is 19.18 inches. I’m betting the Hoh Rainforest doesn’t look much like Lubbock.

Fog on the west side of the peninsula adds up to 30 additional inches of moisture to the rainforests each year. No wonder vampires love it.

Apple Maps.

Winter steelhead season, wild steelhead season, begins in February and ends in April. I’ve fished for steelhead once before, last year in Oregon, but those were summer steelhead, and winter steelhead are a different kettle of fish. Steelhead are ocean-dwelling rainbow trout that, like salmon, come back to their natal river to spawn, and they are often considered a species of Pacific salmon, but they’re genetically the same as rainbow trout which stay in freshwater snd are not considered a species of Pacific salmon. It gets confusing.

Anadromous. Steelhead (like resident rainbows) hatch in the spring or early summer and then (unlike resident rainbows) work their way to the ocean. The resident rainbow might reach five pounds (which would be huge). The ocean-dwelling steelhead, feeding on ocean shrimp and baitfish, might reach 20 pounds or more. After two or three years of growing, steelhead get notions for some hanky-panky and go back home. 

But going home can be early or late, depending on the steelhead’s genetics. Summer (and fall) steelhead come into the rivers before they are sexually mature. The early arrival is probably a reproduction strategy that gives summer steelhead time to move further inland. They may swim upriver a thousand miles or more. Winter steelhead on the other hand come into the rivers already hot and bothered, have their liaisons closer to saltwater and then, if they’re lucky, return to the ocean. Unlike the other Pacific salmon, steelhead can survive the spawn and return to spawn again next season. They don’t usually, maybe 10 percent or so return from a prior season, but they can. The rest of the Pacific salmon never swim back. They die.

National Forest Service, spawning steelhead.

Because winter steelhead are mature when they enter the river, they are much larger than summer steelhead. We had two spey rods for summer steelhead, a 6 wt. and a 7 wt. In our gear list for next week we were told to bring 8 and 9 wts. We’ll take a 7 and and the new 8 (don’t tell Kris), and otherwise use the outfitter’s rods. We’ll leave the 6 at home.

We were also told to bring both regular and dual or triple density Skagit lines, with a wide variety of sinking tips. Floating Skandi lines weren’t on the list. Apparently we need to get our flies down deep.

I hope your eyes are starting to glaze over. Spey rods. Weights. Skagit and Skandi heads. Tips. It’s not really important, except that the bigger the weight of the rod, the bigger the fish it can handle, and the bigger the fly it can throw. Spey rods are long two-handed rods designed to cast to salmon and steelhead. Skandi heads (named for Scandinavia) float on top of the water. Skagit heads (named for Skagitavia) usually also float, but they’re short and heavy, and are designed to throw sinking tips and bigger flies. There. I’ve explained everything, right? Of course I could also be wrong. I’m from Houston. What do I know about all this stuff?

So I emailed Jason Osborne at The Portland Flyshop. Jason has helped me before more than once, and had suggested The Evening Hatch as our outfitter on the Olympic Peninsula. He called me to sort out my confusion, and then told me I was going to the most beautiful place on the planet.

“You will see every shade of green,” he said, “and the Queets is the perfect river when it’s on. It’s wadeable, and easy to read, and the water is beautiful.” It was pretty exciting, but I could have told Jason that if in mid-August he’d go to Lubbock, Texas, he could probably see every shade of brown.

Wild Olympics, Proposed Wild and Scenic Rivers, https://www.wildolympics.org/forests-and-rivers/wild-scenic-rivers/ .

The Queets isn’t the only river on the Olympic Peninsula to fish for winter steelhead. From what I can make out there’s also the Sol Duc, Calawah, Hoh, Bogachiel, and Quinault. The Peninsula is home to a spider web of rivers running to all points of the compass from the central mountains. Some are fed by the (disappearing) Olympic Mountain glaciers, some by springs. This week though, they’re all fed by rain. Western Washington, including the Peninsula, has received as much as 9 inches of rain in a day in the high mountains, and along with landslide warnings the rivers are in flood.

Jack Mitchell at The Evening Hatch says that everything’s blown out but that we should hit things about right. If we do it will be the first time, but on the flip side I’m happy with just about anything short of a landslide. As long as I’m not drowning in mud I can spend my time hanging out and working on Bach on the guitar. I am happy to see that after reaching 22. 5 feet the Queets is moving in the other direction. Ideal flow for fishing the Queets is probably something less than 4,000 cfs. The current 20,000 cfs is probably still just a wee bit high, even if it’s better than the 70,000 cfs it was running this time yesterday. That’s blown out.

Meanwhile I’ve been tying flies. A winter steelhead’s digestive system shuts off when it comes back to freshwater, so even if it does take a fly it’s not feeding. The notion is to tie a fly that triggers something: curiosity, anger, habit, and then keep your fingers crossed.

This is clearly hubris on my part: I’ve got no notion of what flies might be useful or worthwhile in winter in Western Washington. I tied fish tacos last time, and caught my steelhead on the fish taco I tied from the ostrich feather the guy in drag gave me at the Houston Pride Parade. This time I’m tying bunny leaches in various attractive color combinations and weights: pink/orange, pink/purple, black/pink, blue/orange. They’re not much like anything I’ve tied before. For all I know they may not be like anything anyone else has tied either, though I’d like to think there are people catching steelhead with them all over steelhead country. In any case, I’m taking that Pride Parade fly with me.

But the good news is that it probably doesn’t much matter. To fish steelhead you stand in the river and cast and cast and cast and then cast a thousand times more and maybe get a strike. Maybe. I haven’t caught any fish so far this year, to be honest I haven’t fished much, and like as not I’ll keep my streak going. There’s always Bach.

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2020

We’re at 16 states, with two more, Hawaii and Wisconsin, where we didn’t catch fish. I thought this would take ten years, but then Louis Cahill wrote that we were doing it in five, and that wormed its way into my head. If ten, we’re way ahead, if five we’ve got some catching up to do.

Going someplace and catching a fish is pretty easy, except for time, money, and effort. There are states that are left, Tennessee, New Mexico, Arkansas, North Carolina, Colorado, California . . . Where I’ve spent enough time in my life that I could probably fly or drive in, catch a fish, and check the state off my list without missing much, but there are also states, New Mexico, Montana, Wyoming, Maine, where spending less than a week just seems wrong.

If we really spend a week in all the places that deserve a week ten years won’t be enough.

In eight days we can do some justice to three states, say Arkansas, Missouri, and Tennessee, but try to add Georgia into that and it’s just too much for anything but a drive-by. Pennsylvania, for instance, is one of the reasons we’re doing this. Neither of us have ever been to Pennsylvania, and how can we not spend at least a couple of days in Philadelphia, and how can we not see Gettysburg? I could probably spend a week in Pennsylvania. Meanwhile I’ve still got work, and there are our dogs at home who love us, and there is the cost of long trips.

So we’ve been planning for 2020. Earlier this year I had decided Michigan, Wisconsin, and Iowa as a trip, taking about a week so we could fish the Au Sable, some of the UP, Hayward for Muskie, and then the Driftless in SW Wisconsin/NE Iowa. We had talked about a ten day driving trip north, fishing in Kansas, Nebraska, South Dakota, and North Dakota. We booked Delaware, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania, mostly to fish with the guide and teacher, Dom Swentosky in Pennsylvania; and to see Philadelphia. We talked about a great tailwater trip through New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah, but no.

Here’s the first map I came up with. The proposed 2020 states are light blue or pink.

And now that’s all shot to hell. Instead we’ve scheduled Washington in February, which is great fun to tell people, and which I blame on Kris: She didn’t say no. New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and South Carolina are still on for June, and then, because of a chance conversation, we’ll go to North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia in early August. That driving trip to the great Southwestern tailwaters will have to wait, and we won’t be driving straight north to North Dakota.

Here’s how the map looks now. Blue states are pretty settled. We’ll try to pick up some of the pinks as we go along. Maybe we’ll make Arkansas Christmas morning.

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I Got Speyed, Redux

Lately I’ve had rod fever. This happens from time to time. I convince myself that there’s a hole in the universe that can only be filled by possession of. . . some rod, some rod that is newer and niftier and pretty as a happy child hunting Easter eggs on a bright spring morning and that will make me a better caster and a better catcher and a better husband and father and human being. Rod fever may happen to me more than most, but I doubt it. And it never quite works out the way I think. I’m always still just me.

Last year I got rod fever bad for Spey rods, which is a peculiar thing for a Houstonian since there’s no real Spey fishing for at least a thousand miles. Still. I bought a Spey rod, and in 2018 we fished four days for steelhead on the Deschutes River in Oregon. We swung flies with long 13-foot Spey rods, about four feet longer than normal rods, and tried to learn Spey casts, or at least enough to get through four days’ fishing.

To most fly fishers, Spey casting is exotic and mysterious. It’s not like the standard overhead cast. It’s done with two hands, not one. There is no backcast; the line never lays out behind the angler, instead there’s some flippy dippy stuff that eyesight and brain can’t quite follow. After a couple of incantations and some pyrotechnics the caster shoots the line forward, as much as twice the length of a normal cast. It is a lovely, magical thing to see, baffling and irresistible.

Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland, J. Cary, Detail from a new map of Scotland, from the latest authorities, 1801, London.

The River Spey is in northeast Scotland, and the long rods and the two-handed casts originated on Scottish Atlantic salmon rivers. Speyside single malt Scotch is also from the region of the River Spey, Glenfiddich and Macallan being the best known, so there are many good things from thereabouts. What could better define a day of manly sport than putting on a bit of tweed, spending a day casting a Spey rod, and following it all with a wee or not-so-wee dram of rich and smoky Speyside? What man or woman could want more?

The long rods have advantages. They don’t require a backcast, so you can stand by a bank in a river and cast without hanging up in the branches behind you. They cast far, so you can cover lots of ground on big water, and the rod length better manipulates the line once it’s on the water. After four days of fishing I could cast 50 or 60 feet with the spey rod, but I fished near a good caster, Louis Cahill of Gink and Gasoline. He consistently shot line twice the distance I could manage, and it was beautiful.

Spey rods have some disadvantages. They’re not particularly accurate, and casting that far usually isn’t necessary. They’re made to swing flies, and swinging flies, isn’t common. Swinging flies lets the line pull the fly down and across in an arc, with the angler as the pivot point. It’s an old method of fly fishing, arcane even, with plenty of modern arcana pitched in to make the whole business obscure and esoteric, but except in the Pacific Northwest and maybe Scotland swinging flies isn’t common. Instead we let flies drift naturally with the current, or retrieve streamers. We don’t let flies swing.

I hadn’t seriously touched my Spey rod since our trip to Oregon, but we need to catch a fish in Washington State, and the obvious play, the right color of fish, is Olympic Peninsula winter steelhead. Kris didn’t hesitate. “Of course,” she said. “Let’s go,” she said. “And bring along some whisky.” Ok, she didn’t say that last, and she didn’t spell whiskey like a Scot when she didn’t say it, but sometimes one needs to extrapolate.

So I emailed Jason Osborn at The Portland Fly Shop and asked Jason who we should fish with in Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. Jason said he was guiding in southern Washington, but that the Olympic Peninsula was a good idea. He said that for February we should check with Jack Mitchell’s The Evening Hatch.

But I also had rod fever, I wanted–no, I needed–another Spey rod, so I asked Jason to send along a 3-weight rod and a matching line because suddenly Spey fishing for trout is all the rage, and like I said, I had rod fever. This 3-weight business takes a bit of explanation. Fly rods are in weights, higher weight rods are used for bigger fish. If you want to catch a 200 pound marlin, a 14-weight would do the job. If you want to catch a bluegill, a 3-weight would be the very thing. For steelhead, the usual weight is somewhere around a 7- to 9-weight. A 3-weight is built for smaller fish.

Jason made a couple of suggestions and I took the cheapest, a Redington Hydrogen trout Spey made in China. I should say it wasn’t cheap, but for a Spey rod it was pretty reasonable. It’s a rather homely fella, with none of the design flourishes that would come with a high-dollar rod, but it’s well put together. It’s perfectly good to fool with in local waters.

And for most of what we catch in Texas rivers a 3 weight will work just fine. It would let us practice spey casts before our trip to Washington, and that’s all I really wanted. The rod came, and we drove three hours to New Braunfels to see if there were any trout yet in the Guadalupe. There weren’t, they won’t be stocked until Thanksgiving, and the flow in the river was ridiculously low, but I hadn’t forgotten everything I knew, the rod cast fine, and there were bluegill and bass. I caught a Guadalupe bass, the state fish of Texas, swinging a girdle bug. I also caught a tiny bluegill on a partridge and yellow. What sounds more manly than a partridge and yellow? Just forget that tiny bluegill part.

And then I went home and had a wee dram. Or two.

T.E. Pritt, Pritt’s Orange and Partridge, Plate 6 – Yorkshire Trout Flies, 1885, Goodall and Suddick, Leeds.

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Washington

Not D.C., the other one. There’s a story about that. In 1858, when Congress separated the Washington Territory from Oregon, the locals wanted to name the new territory Columbia. Congress wanted more done to honor President Washington, and so now we have both a state and a district. Laudible, and he is certainly worthy of honor, but my guess is whoever chose Washington had never done a Google search.

If friendly and delightful sea otters hadn’t been trapped and clubbed into oblivion, Washington State might be Canadian. The British wanted the Canadian border south at Oregon, at the Columbia River. We wanted the border considerably north, at 54°40′ north, well into British Columbia. In his 1844 presidential campaign James K. Polk made 54-40 or Fight the Make America Great Again of its day. Along with beaver, sea otter fur was the economic pile driver of the Pacific Northwest, but without that economic spur the British weren’t going to fight over a bunch of trees, and Polk got distracted by the Mexican-American War. In 1846 both sides compromised on the 49th Parallel. Meanwhile the sea otter population has recovered to about 100,000 animals.

“Mike” Michael L. Baird, Sea otter mother with nursing pup, 2008, Creative Commons License, Wikimedia Commons.

Washington is our 13th largest state by population, with an estimated population of 7,535,591, not including sea otters. It is more diverse than predominately white Oregon, with Asians, 9.3%, the largest group after Anglos, 68%, and Hispanic whites, 10.9%. Blacks are 4.3%. Washington ranks 11th in household income. Its economy is driven by technology and engineering, trade with Asia, by my purchases at REI, and by all those lines at all those Starbucks. Big names, Boeing, Microsoft, Amazon, Starbucks, and REI, are based in Seattle.

It is a liberal state, or at least a Democratic state. In 2016, Hillary Clinton received 54.3% of the vote. There are states where she did better, but there are states where she did much worse. Washington tends Democratic, but not overwhelmingly so. In the 2018 senate election, the Democratic incumbent, Maria Cantwell, received 58.4% of the vote, but the increased percentage over 2016 may only mean that Senator Cantwell was a popular incumbent.

In 2016, the Libertarian candidate, Gary Johnson, got 5% of the Washington vote. Nationally he received only 3.8% of the vote. One suspects that in Washington there isn’t so much a deep well of Libertarian notions as there is a bunch of traditional Republicans who couldn’t bring themselves to vote for President Trump, nor Hillary. That 5% was likely driven as much by protest as conviction.

Ali Zifan, 2016 Washington election map, Wikipedia.

Rural areas voted for President Trump, urban areas, the area around Puget Sound and the southern Portland suburbs at Vancouver, voted for Clinton. Only one rural western county, Whitman County, voted Democratic. Pullman, its largest city, is a university town, home of Washington State. It’s also directly across the border from Moscow, Idaho, an outlier Democratic area in Idaho’s 2016 election and home of the University of Idaho. Like begets like.

The other rural area to vote Democratic, that dark blue bar on the left that bisects the Olympic Peninsula, roughly corresponds to Olympic National Park. Not many votes, but I figure the rangers knew on which side their bread was buttered.

User:Symi81, Annual Precipitation of Washington State 1961-1990, 2007, public domain, Wikipedia.

Geographically Washington divides into six regions, and the regions correspond to (1) annual precipitation (no surprise there) and (2) voting patterns (I guess there should be no surprise either). With one exception it’s also the geography of our Northwest Coast, not confined peculiarly to Washington State, but running south to Northern California and north all the way to Alaska. It just goes to show how arbitrary our borders can be.

In the far west is the Coast Range, which, not surprisingly, is along the Pacific coast. Who knew? It’s a relatively temperate zone, with rare snowfall but plenty of rain. East of the Coast Range are the Puget Sound Lowlands, the Cascade Range, the arid Columbia Plateau, and in the far northeast a tiny sliver of the Rockies.

The exception, the peculiar feature and the area where we’re scheduled to fish for winter steelhead in February, is the temperate rain forest in the upper left on the Olympic Peninsula. It’s annual temperatures in low elevations occasionally dip to freezing, but are generally mild, if someone from Houston could ever consider 40 degrees mild. What it does have is rain. Constant rain. A drip drip drip of up to 140 inches in the lowlands during the winter season, while at elevation there may be up to 35 feet of snow.

R. Hoffman, National Park Service, Olympic National Park Annual Rainfall.

One of my doctors went to the University of Washington for medical school, across Puget Sound from the Peninsula. He tells me that it is so spooky and dense that it’s no wonder all those teen vampire movies are filmed there. I came home after we talked and watched the first Twilight, and while I wouldn’t recommend the movie, the landscape may be the best character.

Meanwhile we’ll be fishing for winter steelhead in and around Olympic National Park, fishing with extra-long two-handed Spey rods with Jack Mitchell’s The Evening Hatch, swinging flies out and across big rivers. I understand that temperatures will be cold, but likely not freezing. It will be wet. Winter is the rainier season, and the rainfall is measured in 10s of inches only after you clear the first 100. The fish are theoretically bigger than the summer steelhead we fished for last year in Oregon. Summer steelhead might be six pounds, winter up to 20, but the winter steelhead are even harder to catch. The winter fish are sexually mature when they come into the rivers and focused on the spawn and less likely to take a fly. They are the totem fish of the strange cult of Northwest Pacific steelheading. Maybe Kris and I have joined the cult. Kris didn’t hesitate when I asked if she wanted to try it.

So we will go to Seattle, maybe take a day or so to look around, maybe even cross to Victoria so Kris can finally say she’s been to Canada, but mostly we’ll stand around in a river in the rain and dodge the vampires while the steelhead dodge us. There’s always next winter.

Michael Gäbler, Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park, 1992, Creative Commons License, Wikimedia Commons.