John Brown! Kansas.

Porte Crayon (David Hunter Strother), En route for Harper’s Ferry, 1859, wood engraving, Harper’s Weekly, Library of Congress.

The events that led up to the Civil War are a mess, which I guess is the way they should be, but their level of complication is greater than the level of my willingness to learn them. From the founding of the nation to the firing on Fort Sumner there’s all this complicated stuff that happened, dates, compromises, court decisions, slave revolts, expansions, and these then-famous people with now dimly remembered names like Taylor and Pierce and Webster and Calhoun and Clay. They made speeches and policy and enacted laws and whatnot, and all of what they did was overshadowed by the now inexplicable and then intransigent desire of Southerners to maintain a cruel and immoral institution. I have in the back of my mind the suspicion that notwithstanding the absence of any given incident, at the end of the day the War would have happened whatever came before, maybe sooner, maybe later, but the War was inevitable.

I’ve boiled the sequence of what happened down in my own pretty little head to a few things. It’s my litany, useful to me but simplified. In 1807, Congress, at the urging of President Jefferson, voted to ban the importation of new slaves. Congress, both North and South, voted for the ban. They believed that if they stopped African importation, slavery would collapse because it was economically unsustainable. Forty years later, that vote would have been impossible.

Samuel Morris, Eli Whitney, 1822, oil on canvas, Yale University Art Gallery.

Two things intervened that would have made that vote impossible. The same year as the ban, Eli Whitney received a patent for a cotton gin, which made industrial agricultural cotton production profitable in the Deep South, Land of Cotton, not forgotten. Industrial agricultural production of cotton meant that slavery not only wouldn’t collapse, but that it was economically desirable, both for the Deep South, producing cotton, and the upper South, producing slaves through natural increase and selling them down South, and in Northern and European mills, weaving cotton. It is not an accident that for Jim in Huckleberry Finn, the threat of being sold down-river to New Orleans is both real and terrifying.

The second intervening event again involved Mr. Whitney. In 1801, Whitney demonstrated the value of interchangeable parts in firearm production, and after his death in 1825 his family fire arms company produced muskets with interchangeable parts. Interchangeable parts helped spur the North’s conversion from agriculture and artisan production to factory industry. Neither idea, the gin or the parts, was exactly new with Whitney, but there you are. In North America he gets the credit, and because of cotton and factories the North and South went different ways.

A new map of the United States. Upon which are delineated its vast works of internal communication, routes across the continent &c, 1852, Philadelphia, Lippincott, Grambo & Co., Library of Congress.

At the same time the economic engines were changing there was westward expansion. It’s hard now to imagine us as anything other than 50 states with amber waves of grain from sea to shining sea, but when Napoleon pawned off Louisiana in 1804, Mississippi (1817) and Alabama (1819) weren’t yet states. Florida (1821) still belonged to the Spanish, or was it the English? In 1804 America the Beautiful was the original 13 Colonies, the Ohio Territory (1803), Kentucky (1791) and Tennessee (1796).

With the Louisiana Purchase things boomed. Texas was annexed in 1845 . The cession of Mexican lands after the Mexican-American War (which Northern progressives saw as a war of Southern aggression to expand slavery) added the Southwest, and treaties with England settled the northern boundary between the U.S. and Canada. Because of control of Congress, there was constant trauma over whether new territories would be slave or free.

Complicating the expansion there was the Supreme Court decision in Dred Scott. Dred Scott held that regardless of where a black slave stood, North or South, state laws could not supersede the property rights of the slaveholder. The black man or woman was not a citizen but a slave, always, even in Ohio, even in Maine.

And there were the first battles, the first blood, in Kansas.

My father wasn’t a cussing man. At least around his family there was no profanity, no curses, but he did from time to time need an exclamation and his exclamation was usually John Brown! I suppose it was something he’d picked up in East Texas from his father, or his uncles, and we heard it so often that we never noticed it until my older sister married and her new husband made fun of it. It was fair game I guess, but still, it ruined John Brown!, and probably for that reason I never say it.

I guess because of my father’s mild expletive I always knew who John Brown was, or at least knew that he had led a raid on Harper’s Ferry to kick off the Civil War. I was fertile soil in college when I read Stephen Oates’ Brown biography, To Purge This Land with Blood. Still, it was a startling book. Brown was a violent zealot, the first modern terrorist. Brown was right, his opponents’ defense of slavery morally indefensible. Brown was charismatic, reasonably well educated, deeply religious, and a failure at most things he attempted. Oddly, he worked in a tannery with U.S. Grant’s father, and like Grant’s father for a time was a tanner. He farmed. He tried to broker wool. He was mad, or not, but certainly he was monomaniacally opposed to slavery. He believed in the equality of whites and blacks, and he believed that only blood could end slavery and bring about equality.

Photographs of John Brown, Wikimedia Commons.

He was a murderer in Kansas. He was a murderer in a good cause. He was a murderer.

One of the events that led to the War was the Kansas-Nebraska Act of 1854. It probably seemed a good idea at the time: Congress couldn’t agree on whether Kansas and Nebraska should be slave or free, so they took themselves off the hook by letting Kansans decide for themselves. It turned out it wasn’t a good idea: It was a really bad idea. For some, pro-slavery and abolitionists both, it became a matter of missionary zeal to go to Kansas, and that was how John Brown got there. He went to fight a war. The pro-slave side struck first, by sending pro-slave Ruffians–that was the shorthand for white Southern Thugs—across the border from Missouri to steal the local elections and pack the Kansas legislature. There was a resident pro-free state majority, but the pro-slave interlopers, with the support of President Franklin Pierce and his territorial governor, controlled the polls.

On May 21, 1856, the pro-slavery sheriff of Douglas County, Kansas, and his 100-strong pro-slavery posse raided Lawrence, Kansas, an anti-slavery stronghold founded and supported with New England abolitionist money. Only one person died (and him part of the posse and by accident), but Sheriff Jones’s posse burnt the Free State Hotel, trashed the newspapers, looted the town, and took three prisoners. On May 24 Captain Brown, Old Brown as he was known (he was 56 which on the frontier was ancient), led a band that included four of his sons against pro-slavery settlers along Pottawatomie Creek in eastern Kansas, not far from where Kansas City stands today. Brown’s party hacked five pro-slavery settlers to death. It was an execution, like something a radical jihadist would film for distribution via the internet. Brown did not participate in the hacking, he left that for his sons and the rest of the party, but he did shoot one settler through the forehead to make certain he was dead. The Pottawatomie Massacre was in retaliation for the raid on Lawrence. None of the murdered men had been on the Lawrence raid.

John Steuart Curry, Tragic Prelude, 1937, egg tempera and oil mural, Kansas State Capitol, Topeka, Kansas.

Lawrence would be raided once again in 1863 by Quantrill’s raiders, a quasi-military group of Confederate-sympathizing calvary. The Quantrill raid was The culmination of the Kansas guerrilla warfare that began with John Brown’s raid on Potawattomie Creek. You may recall that the hero of True Grit, Deputy Marshall Rooster Cogburn, rode with Quantrill, as did Jesse James. More than 180 civilians were murdered in the raid.

When I was thinking about John Brown and Kansas I went through the 1859 Harper’s Weeklies published immediately after the raid on Harper’s Ferry. Harper’s Weekly was the most widely circulated magazine of its day, and on its back page included amusing cartoons. It was so influential that it is largely responsible for the American adoration of Santa Claus and Christmas. Abolitionists called it Harper’s Weakly.

In an October issue, about two weeks after John Brown’s raid, I found a cartoon of a well-dressed man and woman seated across from each other at a table in a bright and draperied room. “I say, Peg,” says the man, “just give me two or three of your Eyelashes to finish off this Black Palmer; there’s a good Girl!” I hope Peg gave him the eyelashes, and I hope he traveled to the Catskills and caught brookies with that very Black Palmer. Even in the middle of it boys would be boys, and I hope he survived the War. I hope that six years later at the end of the horror he and Peg sat once again across that lovely table in that lovely room, and he tied Black Palmers and dreamed of Catskill streams.

Mary Orvis Marbury, Favorite Flies and Their Histories, Plate A, 1892, The Riverside Press, Cambridge, Ma. Fly 2 is the Soldier Palmer, which is a red version of the Hackle Palmer, which is black. Ms. Marbury (who dedicated the book to her father, C.F.) says that “‘palmer’ has, from this, come to be applied to all bodies of artificial flies made to resemble the hairy caterpillar.” The referenced “this” is the wandering, the palmering or pilgriming, of the caterpillar.

Kansas

Oops.

Our next trip was going to be late June to New York/Vermont/New Hampshire to fish for trout. Now look what’s happened. I realized we had a Memorial Day Holiday, and that we could spend a long weekend in Wichita, Kansas.

On Southwest there’s one direct flight a day to Wichita, and it’s at 6 am. The other flight has a layover in Phoenix, and would take slightly longer than the three day weekend. There are on the other hand about a thousand flights a day from Houston, an oil town, to Tulsa, an oil town, and Tulsa is only a two hour drive from Wichita. Flying though we won’t have a canoe, so we’re stuck to walking the banks once we get there. I certainly do that often enough, but in a strange place you never know what you’ll find. Snakes, the beginning of mystery novels where the corpse is discovered, but most of all trees and brush and high banks and deep, unfathomable or worse unfishable water.

John Vachon, untitled photo, 1938, Farm Security Administration, Coffey County, Kansas, Library of Congress.

There are plenty of kinds of fish in Kansas: channel cats, largemouths, stripers, wipers (oh Lord, why couldn’t someone come up with a better name?), bluegill, white bass, northern pike, stocked trout, and that glamour girl of glamour girls, carp. Any of those can be taken with a fly, and at one time or another I’ve caught all but the white stripe hybrids (there, better) and pike. We don’t allow northern pike in Texas. But I have been skunked before, and I’m terrified of not catching a Kansas fish.

I’ve been to Kansas twice before. Once was long ago, and I don’t remember much except for someone saying look, we’re in the Flint Hills. The other was a recent trip to Kansas City to see the Astros play the Royals at Kauffman Stadium. Kauffman is a mid-century modern masterpiece, and one of MLB’s prettiest baseball stadiums. There are other things worth seeing in Kansas City as well: the National WWI Museum, the American Jazz Museum and the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum at 18th and Vine, the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, and the magnificent American, a restaurant in Crown Center. Unfortunately the American is now permanently closed. Too bad, too, because Kansas City barbecue sucks.

But of course everything in Kansas City seems actually to be in Missouri. Even Kansas City, Kansas, actually seems to be in Missouri. So this time we’re going to Wichita, where there’s no danger of stepping over any nearby state line. I guess we’ll get to Kansas and start driving around with a road atlas (that’s a kind of paper Google maps for any younger reader) and Google Earth in hand.

Ho! For the Kansas Plains, sheet music, 1856, Boston, Oliver Ditson, pub., Library of Congress.

If you look at a map of Kansas, it’s veined with rivers and dotted with reservoirs. There’s a lot of conventional tackle fishing on large Kansas reservoirs–we’re talking tens of thousands of acres of big reservoirs and even natural lakes. Of its 87,000 square miles, 459 squire miles of Kansas is covered with water. But fishing the bigger reservoirs without a boat or even a ladder is hard with a fly rod, as are the bigger rivers–there’s both the Arkansas (which must give Kansans fits pronouncing) and the Missouri, and lots of tributaries to both.

There are lots of smaller waters though: Park lakes, creeks, small rivers, natural ponds and ponds left from mining of coal and sand. I would even bet that Kansas has farm ponds, and that driving down a road you can knock on a door and spend an hour fishing. I can catch fish on a farm ponds, and that really seems the right color of fish for Kansas.

We’ll find something, surely, or we’ll go back to Kansas again. Kauffman Stadium is beautiful, and it couldn’t get better than watching the Astros play the Royals in Kauffman on a spring day, even if I had to eat more Kansas City barbecue.

John Vachon, Corn, Kansas, 1938 Farm Security Administration, Library of Congress.

Wisconsin Packing List

We didn’t take any fishing gear to Wisconsin, except for waders, boots, and sunglasses. We didn’t wade, but on the day it rained I wore my boots instead of sandals, and Kris wore her waders and her boots both days to stay warm.  The temperature was in the 40s. It was arctic.

We used the guide’s rods, Orvis Recon 10 weights, and they worked great. We have 10 weights, but we don’t have cold water lines for them, and tropic lines kink in cold water. I could get used to not hauling fishing gear through airports. And as to Recon versus Helios most rods are better than I am.

When we were in Oregon, we asked a waitress what we should do while we were there.  She said she didn’t know, that she’d just moved to Oregon from Milwaukee, so we asked her what we should do in Wisconsin. “Eat fried cheese curds.” Our daughter added that we should also eat fresh cheese curds because they squeak when you chew. They do.

Cheese curds are curdled milk, cheddar in process, and not yet cheese. In the New York Times, Louisa Kamp once described the squeak as two balloons trying to neck. They taste a bit like cottage cheese, with more chew.

We bought a block of cheddar cheese which I stuck in my daypack and forgot about.  At least I forgot about it until the TSA lady pulled me out of the line at the Milwaukee airport to go through my pack. I’m pretty sure that in the scanner the block of cheddar looked just like C-4. “Do you have anything sharp in your bag? Anything that could stick me.” She was pulling on her proctology gloves.

“No . . . yes, wait. I have a block of extra sharp cheddar cheese.”  Wisconsin humor. She looked at me and then laughed. The Wisconsin TSA lady thought the joke was funny, and I’m not in prison.

Cheese

After the fur trade, Wisconsin’s first industries were timber and wheat. The wheat didn’t last, and I can’t remember why. Disease? Poor soil? Short growing seasons? Wheat worked in Nebraska and Kansas, but not in Wisconsin. So Wisconsin turned to dairy, spurred on by the efforts of the University of Wisconsin. I had always assumed that Wisconsin came to dairy because that’s where European dairy farmers immigrated, but no. It was the replacement crop because of the failure of wheat.

Where We Didn’t Go

There was a lot of Wisconsin we didn’t see. There is a peninsula, Door County, in the northeast, roughly paralleling the Michigan upper peninsula on the east side of Lake Michigan. Door County was somewhere referred to as Wisconsin’s Cape Cod. I haven’t been to Cape Cod, but Door County had some appeal to me. The pictures look genteel.

Historically northern Wisconsin was timber, not farming, and Stevens Point was the doorway to the pineywoods. I’ll have a chance to see the north country in Michigan and Minnesota, and it was a long way from Chicago (notwithstanding the draw of the giant fiberglass muskie in Hayward), so we didn’t go. We probably won’t.

The part of the state I wish I’d seen but didn’t was the southwestern Driftless Area.  It is apparently a very fine trout fishery, overlapping Wisconsin, Illinois, Minnesota, and Iowa. It is also the part of the state with the highest concentration of organic farms and rural Democratic votes. It is geologically different than the rest of the state because the great sheet glaciers didn’t cover the Driftless, and consequently didn’t leave glacial drift, glacial drift being the trash left behind by glaciers after a picnic. Consequently there’s not much glacial rock.

There’s a lovely looking trout town there, Viroqua, and I’m a sucker for trout towns. I had already planned to fish the Driftless region in Iowa, so maybe next year I’ll hit them both.

We also didn’t visit the Milwaukee churches.  I’ll go back for that.

What I Didn’t Write About

Aldo Leopold. John Muir. Hank Aaron. The Art of Fielding.

Bud Selig.

Have you ever had someone be so unjust, perpetrate so many indignities, large and small, deliver so many insults that physically you react to their name? Bud Selig. If Fortunato had only been the Commissioner of Baseball, Montresor’s motivations in The Cask of Amontillado would stand revealed.

I’m glad I’m going back. I’ll write about Bud Selig.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bud_Selig_on_October_31,_2010_(2).jpg

Playlist

  • Bon Iver. It was the first album, For Emma, Forever Ago, that was so arresting, so beautiful. I can hum Skinny Love happily forever. I like the other albums, even the strange 22, A Million and side projects like Volcano Choir. But For Emma is beautiful.
  • BoDeans. I’ve listened to the BoDeans since a Stereo Review review of Home back in the 80s.  I miss Stereo Review, but I’m probably the only one. Red River goes into my car trip playlist. 
  • Steve Miller Band. I didn’t really care for them in the 70s, but they’re fun to listen to when your expectations are low.
  • Bruce Springsteen. Cadillac Ranch. Hey little girlie in the blue jeans so tight/Drivin’ alone through the Wisconsin night.  
  • George Jones, Milwaukee Here I Come. There’s also a version by Porter Wagoner and Dolly Parton. If you never saw Dolly Parton on the Porter Wagoner Show on Saturday night, your education is incomplete. Dolly was 21. “Why Porter! You brung me flowers!”
  • Les Paul, The Best of the Capitol Masters Edition. Luckily he designed a great guitar, otherwise no one would remember him. If you never actually listened to Les Paul (which I hadn’t), don’t. 
  • Ella Fitzgerald, My Cousin in Milwaukee. Singin’ sweet about singin’ sexy. 
  • Smoking Popes, Welcome to Janesville. Paul Ryan is from Janesville. It’s a fine song, but I don’t think it’s about Paul Ryan. 
  • Jerry Lee Lewis, What Made Milwaukee Famous (Has Made a Loser Out of Me). Lewis’s late country phase.
  • Brad Paisley, Alcohol. Paisley is from West Virginia, and should have been on my West Virginia playlist. He wasn’t, but only out of ignorance. I suspect he’s not my kind of country, but this is a strange sort of anthem, and probably fitting for the state with the highest alcoholism rate in the country.
  • Kimya Dawson, Tire Swing.  Didn’t know her, and still don’t. Wikipedia lists her genre as anti-folk. Ok then. 
  • Gordon Lightfoot, The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald. Milwaukee is a port. 

Guitar

I took a guitar, my cheap travel guitar, and worked on Villa-Lobos’s Choro No. 1. I gave up on the Bach I’d been working on without really learning it. I did manage to play all the way through it though.

No Muskie, No Cry

We fished the Wisconsin River near Stevens Point, mid-state in Wisconsin, on the last two days of September. The night we got to Wisconsin it froze for the first time this year, months before we could realistically expect a freeze at home. During the day it stayed in the 40s, cold for us, cold for the smallmouth too. Some of the leaves had already changed, but we were told the rest would change and begin to fall during the week after the freeze. Our guide, Abe Downs, said that all but confused smallmouth had migrated for the winter to deeper lake water, and that the fish left in the river were muskie.

That was ok with me.  If the smallmouth were gone so were the summer crowds, and while the trees weren’t the brilliant fall-colors I’d hoped for, there was some color, and plenty enough trees, particularly when measured against the treeless Deschutes we’d fished two weeks before. From what I’d read I figured it was likely we wouldn’t catch a muskie, and I honestly didn’t expect to see fish.

We didn’t catch a muskie. We did see fish.

We fished out of a drift boat and covered a lot of water. It was a big open river lined with trees just starting their change. Off the river in Stevens Point Wisconsinites were friendly even when I couldn’t understand their accents. I think before we return I’ll buy some language tapes.

It was my fault I didn’t catch a fish. I got five strikes and a follow over two days, which for muskie is apparently great fishing. I had expected to deep dredge the flies, but instead they retrieved pretty close to the surface. The water was clean but it wasn’t clear enough to see a fish until it hit the fly. We weren’t sight-casting.

Along with steelheading it was as  repetitious and brutal as fly fishing gets. I would cast and cast and cast, an hour or two of casting, and then while I was daydreaming about cheese curds and beer a fish would violently collapse onto the fly. Being a cool, collected guy I’d freak out and jerk the fly away. Did I know better? Of course I knew better. For me the gap between the knowing and the doing was wide and high.

The rods were industrial Orvis Recon 10 weights, necessary for big flies and big fish but not the delicate whispy wands fly rods are expected to be. The leaders were a few feet of straight 60 pound fluorocarbon attached to a heavy wire bite tippet, attached to a snap swivel, which is the fly fishing equivalent of a steel cable. The flies themselves were huge, gaudy things, close to a foot long with tandem 6/0 hooks. It’s the only time casting a fly rod that I’ve felt like I was throwing a lure, not the line. Soaked muskie flies are heavy. Shoot, the flies were heavy when they were dry. They hauled the line with them, not the other way around.

Abe and Kris talked politics and birds. They both agreed on politics and both were interested in birds, and Abe rowed while we cast, pounding the bank, casting near structure. Abe was an interesting guy, a chemist in his day job, with degrees in mathematics and physics. He also liked bird hunting, which it was the season for, and he liked dogs. He kept us casting, and by the end of the first day my left hand ached from the line retrieve. By the end of the second day my right shoulder ached from casting.

The final muskie, the last one on the second day, struck sideways to the boat. For the first time I saw all of a muskie. It was thick-bodied, and Abe guessed it was about 42 inches long. That’s a big fish. I didn’t jerk the fly away and for a second the fish was on the line, but I needed to strip-set hard, and then strip-set hard again, and I didn’t do it. As fast as the fish struck and I failed to strip-set the fish came off and went back home to catch another re-run of Laverne and Shirley.

I don’t mind going back. Really.

The reels were Orvis Hydros reels with good drags, and I asked Abe if he played the fish on the reels. He said no, that they could be hauled in on the line. Muskie are big fish but I gather that the excitement is in the hook-up not the fight. I failed on the hook-up, but at least I got some of the excitement.

I don’t think Kris is unhappy going back to Wisconsin either. Really. We had a great dinner in Milwaukee with friends at Three Brothers, a Serbian restaurant. I had my first ever goulash, and Kris had the stuffed cabbage. The restaurant was what Milwaukee should look like, old and ethnic. We talked with our friends, Tom and Sal, about dogs and Wisconsin alcoholism and how they met and other stuff, but not much about politics and none about fishing. We would have forced Tom and Sal to look at our fish pictures if we’d had any. Since they probably didn’t want to see fish pictures at least somebody had complete success with our fishing.

That day the Brewers tied the Cubs for the National League Midwest Division, with a one game tie-breaker scheduled the next day to decide the season. Bernie Brewer was with us at the airport, and the Brewers ultimately won. Driving to the airport we wished we had time to go church to church just to see them. To us they were exotic, not the largely functional Baptist churches or mildly British Methodist or Episcopal churches of home. Kris asked me if next time we could fish for something easier than muskie and I said yes, and we will. We’ll go to the driftless region in the southwest to fish for trout, or we’ll come to the Wisconsin River in the smallmouth season.  Meanwhile I’ll think about those fish I didn’t catch. I’ll think about that last fish, the fish I got to see, flashing in the river when I failed to set the hook.