Indiana

It’s August. Houston is ending its second month of record heat with no rain. This morning when I walked the dogs at 6:30 it was 80°, and the high today is projected to be 101°. That’s cooler than yesterday. After the freezes of the last two years the joke is that post-global warming there are two seasons in Houston, Hell and when Hell freezes over.

This morning in Indiana it was 57°. There’s no rain there, either, but the high in Indiana today will only be 91°. That’s a perfectly reasonable August day. We’re going to Indiana to enjoy beautiful summer weather.

Yesterday at a dinner I sat across from a psychoanalyst who grew up in Indiana. She left in 1974, which she said was the height of Indiana’s Rust Belt economic failure. Indiana, Ohio, Michigan, Pennsylvania, upstate New York, West Virginia . . . That must be the year we started buying Japanese cars, outsourcing carburetors to Mexico, and importing computer chips from China. Ok, maybe the computer chips came later. Indiana’s economy was either manufacturing or farming, and since its peak in the 1950s, American manufacturing in the Rust Belt had declined into collapse. She said that still, it was a wonderful place to grow up, and that where we were going, near Crawfordsville, is lovely. She also said she couldn’t have done what she does in Indiana. I suppose that in the Rust Belt years there wasn’t money for fripperies like mental health.

U.S. Expansion 1790, Perry Castaneda Map Collection, University of Texas.

I think we erred when we stopped calling Ohio and Indiana the Old Northwest. Now it’s the Midwest, lumped together with Kansas and Nebraska, but historically the Old Northwest was the heart of the first westward expansion of the brand new United States, and it’s where we abandoned any pretense of Native American assimilation. That bit of our history deserves pondering, but until now I never have. Indiana Indians refused to transform into European farmers, and even if they’d tried we probably wouldn’t have let them. We certainly didn’t put up with that sort of nonsense with the South’s civilized tribes.

By 1816, when Indiana became the 19th state, there was no remaining Native American opposition to European settlement. Indiana had gone from the 1810 formation of the Tecumsah Federation to unopposed European settlement in six years. Death and removal had become the tools of American expansion, and would remain so.

Kurz & Allison, Battle of Tippecanoe, 1889, Library of Congress, https://loc.gov/pictures/resource/pga.01891/.

William Henry Harrison, the future short-lived President, was appointed Indiana territorial governor in 1801. He was a well-to-do Virginia boy–he was still in his early 20s–and he had two goals; to open the territory for expansion, which he did, and to claim the territory for slavery, which he didn’t.

He failed to expand slavery for the most unexpected of reasons: white Southern settlers. When Indiana’s first constitution was written, the majority of Indiana settlers were Southerners from slave states, Kentucky, Virginia, North Carolina, but they were poor Southerners from slave states, not William Henry Harrison’s slave-owning aristocracy. When they adopted their new statehood constitution, they prohibited slavery. It may have been the right thing to do, but their motive wasn’t humanitarian. They didn’t want to compete with Southern slave owners for land.

They didn’t want to compete with African Americans either. Indiana’s 1851 constitution prohibited black immigrants, and imposed registration requirements for existing black inhabitants.

The Lincoln family was part of the migration of poor Southerners from Kentucky to Indiana, until they finally moved on to Illinois when Abraham was 21. Indiana missed a bet when it let young Honest Abe leave.

St. Mémin, Charles Balthazaqr Julien Fevret de, 1800, William Henry Harrison, 9th President of the United States, engraving, Library of Congress; Tecumseh, between 1860 and 1900, wood engraving, Library of Congress.

Notwithstanding Lincoln, Indiana has a reputation for conservative politics, and its current politics certainly are. It’s the state that gave us Mike Pence, former vice president and before that the Indiana governor. Poor Pence. He is so hated as a sycophantic toady on the left and as a craven coward on the right that he doesn’t get the credit he deserves for stepping up on January 6. Me? I will always be thankful for Pence, though I wouldn’t vote for him. I suspect that history will be kinder to Mike Pence than we are, at least if the nation survives the next score years.

In 2016, Donald Trump carried Indiana by 56.9% to 37.8% for Hillary Clinton, with 2,734,958 total votes. The Libertarian, Gary Johnson, received 5% of the vote. Four years later Trump carried 57.02% of the vote and Biden 40.96%, with 3,033,118 total votes. The Libertarian, Jo Jorgenson, dropped to 1.95%. It probably should be noted that Trump’s numbers might have been inflated by having native-son Pence as a running mate, but I suspect that in Indiana Trump would have walked away with the elections anyway. Democrats won in areas you’d expect, urban Indianapolis and the college town of Bloomington. Then there are the somewhat unexpected old industrial counties, Lake and St. Joseph in the far northwest, but unexpected to me because I know very little of Indiana. Finally there’s Tippecanoe County, with a population of 186,251. It voted for Trump in 2016, but switched to Biden in 2020. It is the home of Purdue University, and maybe that explains it, though switched majorities are always interesting.

Indiana 2020 election results by county, Wikipedia.

Barrack Obama did squeak by with a win in Indiana in 2008, 50% to 48.9%, but he didn’t repeat in 2012 when he dropped a full 6%. All of the statewide officials in Indiana are Republican, as are both senators and seven of the nine members of Congress. In the state assembly, 40 of the 50 senators and 70 of the 100 representatives are Republican. I reckon Indiana deserves its conservative reputation.

Geographically, in the north Indiana is bordered by Lake Michigan and Michigan, in the east by Ohio, in the south by Kentucky, and in the west by Illinois. The Ohio River separates Indiana and Kentucky, and the Wabash River flows along the lower third of the Illinois-Indiana border–the part where the border is squiggly. It is the 38th state by size, between Virginia and Maine, with 35,870 square miles, but it’s 17th by population with 6,833,037 people as of 2022. Massachusetts is 16th.

Northern and central Indiana were glaciated and tend to be flat to rolling. There’s corn in them there rolls. Corn and soybeans make up about 60% of Indiana’s agriculture production. Unglaciated southern Indiana is apparently more varied, with sedimentary deposits of limestone, shale, sandstone, and dolomite, some of which apparently protrude as bluffs and whatnot. Coal mining in the south is located north across the Ohio River from Kentucky’s northwestern coal region. “Paradise” is on the Green River in Kentucky, not the Wabash, and “Coal Miner’s Daughter” set in Indiana just ain’t quite the thing.

Current Indiana coal permits. The blue circles are surface mines, the purple squares are underground, and the yellow stars are processing facilities. I think. Indiana Department of Natural Resources.

With all that sedimentary rock in south Indiana filtering water, farms growing corn, and proximity to Kentucky, Indiana ought to be an excellent location for bourbon, and apparently there’s excellent bourbon made in southern Indiana. In the interest of science I’ll go out of my way to try some.

In addition to corn and good water, Indiana has a ready supply of white people. Indiana is 77% Anglo, with less than 10% of the population African American, less than 8% Hispanic, and 3% Asian. Indianapolis, the state’s largest city with about 900,000 people, is 88% Anglo. Only in the northwestern industrial corner closest to Chicago are there sizable African American or Hispanic populations, in Lake County 18.9% and 17.7%, respectively.

There are two reasons to go to Indiana to fish. This gets complicated, but in the Newer Northwest, Oregon, Washington, and Northern California, they haven’t quite managed to kill off all their steelhead, and there is still a steelhead fishery there, some of it wild. When we fished in Washington and Oregon, we fished for steelhead, though we only caught a total of one. Steelhead are rainbow trout that join the navy and go to sea, then return to their natal rivers to spawn. Genetically they are exactly like the rainbow trout that never leave the western rivers. Behaviorally they are much closer to Pacific salmon. Feeding in the Pacific they grow large enough to rival some of the Pacific salmon as well.

Sage, Dean, Townsend, C.H., Smith, H.M., Harris, William C., Great Lake Trout, 1924, Salmon and Trout 351, MacMillan Company, New York, New York, Freshwater and Marine Image Bank, University of Washington. The scientific name is now Salvelinus namaycush.

Meanwhile the Great Lakes were once populated with lake trout, a close cousin of brook trout. Lake trout are the largest of the chars, and are native to the northern US and Canada. I don’t think they were ever particularly popular with fly fishers–they live deep in big waters, plus they are invasive in places like Yellowstone–but in the Great Lakes they were once a popular gamefish for gear fishers and an important commercial fishery. Then they were effectively wiped out of the Great Lakes by pollution, overfishing, and invasive sea lampreys after the Welland Canal connected the Lakes to the Atlantic. I could have bad dreams about invasive sea lampreys.

To replace the lake trout fishery, the Old Northwest settled on stocking New Northwest steelhead. Now in Ohio, Pennsylvania, Indiana, and Upstate New York–Steelhead Alley–fly fishing in the dead of winter for steelhead migrating into rivers from the Great Lakes is a thing. In my mind it’s a strange, cold thing, but still a thing. To steelhead anglers in Washington, Oregon, and Northern California, the notion that fishing for a stocked freshwater lake fish and calling it steelhead is anathema. It really is quite the etymological dispute.

We are not going to fish for Great Lakes steelhead, or whatever it is they’re called that doesn’t make somebody angry. We are going to fish for smallmouth bass, which are native to Indiana. I’m told that Indiana is the very place for smallmouth bass, mostly by the State of Indiana. I am also told, mostly by the State of Indiana, that the particular place we’re going, Sugar Creek, is among the very best places for Indiana smallmouth. I hope the State of Indiana is at least as honest as its two famously honest sons, Abe Lincoln and Mike Pence.

Missouri Packing List

It’s been a few weeks and a trip to Cuba since we went to Missouri, but there are interesting things to add about Missouri, and by now the tornado is mostly forgotten.

Gear

We fished part of a day at Roaring River State Park. It’s a pretty Ozark mountain river, and it’s easy to wade. It was a bit crowded though. Why do I ever fish on a Saturday? Since Kris and I are both retired we don’t have to anymore, and having a place to ourselves is such a joy. Still, it was a pretty park, and we used typical trout set ups, 9′ 5-weight rods with floating lines. I caught two fish, both rainbow trout. We fished until the park trout permit pinned to my cap blew off and floated downriver.

The river is stocked from a nearby hatchery, and it was a mix of wild and stocked trout. For some folks stocked fish may seem like opportunity, but it’s always less desirable to fish for stocked fish than wild fish. I can’t usually catch much of either one, so I guess it’s not that one’s harder to catch than the other. Wild fish are just better.

I caught both trout on the Roaring River on a mop fly over a hare’s ear nymph, both fished under the surface. Mop flies are tied from one of those fuzzy mops, and are considered by some as a cheap trick. Don’t tell anyone that I used one.

I kinda like mop flies because you can get a lifetime supply of tying materials with a single trip to Walmart.

The next day we fished Crane Creek in Crane, Missouri, which is another pretty Ozark stream, and which is almost but not-quite famous. In the late 1800s, railroad workers dumped California McCloud River rainbow trout off of a railroad bridge into Crane Creek. Cane Creek hasn’t really been stocked much since, and the fish there today are the descendants of those original fish without significant interference. They may be the purest genetic strain of McCloud rainbows in the country, including those in the McCloud River.

Cane Creek

Stocking trout in rivers that support wild trout is controversial. It introduces non-native fish and diseases, and the stocked fish are just enough competition with the natives to hurt. The stockees don’t survive much either. The best-managed states, Montana for instance, have stopped stocking where there are wild trout, and a lot of the nation’s best rivers are never stocked. A creek that hasn’t been stocked, or a creek where stocking was abandoned, is a bit of a gem. That’s why a place like Crane Creek is someplace to look for.

We were there on a Sunday, and Crane Creek was also a little crowded, but I swear they were the nicest people I’ve ever come across on a river. We were at th park in the Town of Crane, population 1,495, and people invited me over to fish next to them. It was unnatural.

Crane Creek fish are small, and I fished with my tiniest rod. This is where I get goofy. Goofier. The truth is I buy fly rods and reels not because they’re better–almost every fly rod and reel is better than I am–but because they’re pretty. If I’m going to buy a reel, I don’t go in thinking that I want this reel because it has the very latest drag system and faster line retrieve, I buy it because I think it looks good. Of all the fly fishing gear I own–and I own a stupid amount of fly fishing gear–this is my prettiest rod and reel:

It’s an 8 1/2 foot Winston Boron IIIx 3-weight rod made in Montana, a rod that is way too lightweight for most of my fishing, and it’s just the loveliest shade of emerald green, with nickel silver fittings and a burled maple reel seat. The reel is a tiny Hardy Marquis 2/3 reel made in England. Are they appreciably better than any other 3-weight rod or reel? No. Could I have found a perfectly decent rod and reel for a third of the price? Absolutely. Are there any rods that look better? Well, maybe some custom classic bamboo. My goodness they’re pretty, and when the fish are small enough it just makes me idiotically happy to use them.

On Crane Creek I caught two small trout on a size 16 hare’s ear nymph under a size 14 royal Wulff, and Kris caught another. I picked the hare’s ear and royal Wulff because, well, they’re classic flies and I thought they matched that rod and reel. I’ve got standards, and I’m not fishing any mop flies with this rod.

Royal Wulff

Branson

I don’t like Branson. Am I being a snob? Of course. I have friends and family who love to go to Branson. I don’t.

There is a Trump Store, and there are shows.

I can’t think of anything worse than going to a show, unless it’s going to a Trump Store. You say the word show to me, and I feel queasy. Las Vegas? Oh lord, don’t make me go. I don’t gamble, and in Las Vegas there are shows. My daughter says the shopping is great in Las Vegas, but how can that be? I don’t think there’s a single fly fishing shop. Las Vegas at least has a minor league baseball team. I don’t think there’s any baseball in Branson.

The last show I went to voluntarily was Cirque de Soleil some 15 years ago, and I know those performers were miraculous, and that there are otherwise rational people who think that Cirque de Soleil is the best thing going. I know in my heart of hearts that that very show I went to was in all ways wonderful, but me? I was bored out of my mind. I’m still bored just thinking about it.

Maybe I need to go to a show with some mostly-naked ladies. At least I’d like the costumes.

In Branson, there are shows a-plenty, and what’s worse they’re all shows that revel in clean living. There’s Dolly Parton’s Stampede Dinner and Show, Hamners’ Unbelievable Magic Variety Show, WhoDunnit Hoedown and Murder Mystery Show, the Grand Jubilee Show, All Hands on Deck Show, Legends in Concert Show, Shepherd of the Hills Outdoor Drama Show . . . The list just won’t stop. You think you’re on a river in the Ozark backcountry away from all the shows, and you come across a flier for the Amazing Acrobats of Shanghai Show.

I’ve got nothing against clean living, and I consider myself a reasonably clean liver. I know and love several devout Baptists, and even some vegetarians, but clean living commodified into a show? I can’t think of a less appealing combination. Branson is one of those rare places where a soupçon of depravity would improve the moral tone.

I guess they do fish with mop flies, and plenty of people consider that depraved.

Donuts

We found two donut shops, though I’m sure there were more.

Parlor Doughnuts was a bit off the beaten path in a strip center. They sold gourmet donuts,((I’ve created a donut shop classification system, and there are four categories. Traditional shops include Houston’s Shipley’s, Krispy Kreme’s, Dunkin’, or the very best donut shop in the world, Ocean Springs, Mississippi’s Tato-Nut Doughnut Shop. Parlor Doughnuts is a chain in the Gourmet Category, and gourmet donuts are a bit more creative, with upscale whatnots coming to the fore. Portland’s Blue Star or Albuquerque’s Rebel come to mind. Experiential donut shops have let creativity run amock, and they are my least favorite kind of donut shop–I’m talking to you, VooDoo. A Cambodian donut shop is a clean, well-lighted place that is almost certainly located in a strip center. Everything is basic but good enough, and the owners are at the counter. Cambodian donutries can have flashes of brilliance–the boudin kolache was invented in a Cambodian donut shop and that deserves a Michelin star, or at least a James Beard nomination. It’s fusion cuisine at its finest.)) and the donuts were a bit elaborate for my taste, but I’d go back. I’d certainly go back if the choice was the other place we tried, Hurts.

Hurts is experiential. It’s next door to the Trump Store on the main drag, and it’s huge for a donut shop. There was a long line for the donuts. There were flavors like cotton candy, and cookie monster, and dirt worms, and every donut seemed created for a 9-year old, which I’m not. When I got to the counter, they were out of plain glazed.

The donuts were cold and forgettable. Kris wanted to chuck them and go back to Parlor.

AirBnB

We stayed in a nice pet-friendly AirBnB on the lake on the edge of town. It was just far enough from Branson’s center to forget where we were, and the owner left us a plate of cookies. They were good home-made cookies, too. There was an old canoe and a beat up bamboo fly rod hung as decorations above the fireplace, and I took that as a good omen. I sat on the enclosed porch and read Huck Finn, and, notwithstanding the No Trespassing signs, took the dogs for walks down to the lake. I’m pretty certain those signs weren’t meant for me.

Fly Shops

There are at least a couple of fly shops in Branson, but we only went to one, River Run Outfitters. We were supposed to fish with guides from the shop, but they talked us out of going. It was cold, in the 40s, and all the floodgates on the dam were open. The wind was gusting up to 40 mph. It was dangerous, and what’s worse we weren’t likely to catch anything. They gave us free coffee and good advice on where to fish instead. I bought some mop flies.

Restaurants

Branson is not a restaurant town. Don’t get me wrong, there are lots of restaurants, but they all seem to have names like Hungry Hunter or Pickin’ Porch Grill. There are lots of barbecue places, but I’ve made the mistake of eating Missouri barbecue once before, in Kansas City, and I won’t do that again. Those people eat melted cheese on brisket, which should only be done in leftover brisket enchiladas.

The Keeter Center at College of the Ozarks promised farm to table dining, and I guess it was, but mostly everything just seemed big. Big room, big appetizers, big iced tea. . . Big ideology. I don’t know, it just didn’t click.

See that dish right there? That’s the Brussels sprout nachos appetizer, which as i recall was a lot of chopped up Brussels sprouts and feta on a lot of fried wontons. Had they artfully arranged four or five of those on a plate and charged me $12, I would have eaten them and said that’s ok, but that pile of stuff for $12 was too daunting. All I could think was man-oh-man, that’s big.

All of the waiters at Keeter Center are students at College of the Ozarks, and the hostess told us all about it, and then the waiter told us all about it. It’s a free Christian college, well, free in exchange for work. I’m pretty sure that I couldn’t have gone there without lots of conversations with a dean.

The next night we played it safe and went to two of Branson’s sushi joints, Mitsu Neko and Wakyoto. They were fine, and there were no Brussels sprouts. There was some kale, but I think it was purely decorative.

Playlist

Missouri has produced some magnificent music, and I’m still listening to that playlist. Josephine Baker was from St. Louis, and maybe I might have enjoyed one of her shows. From Wikipedia:

Her performance in the revue Un vent de folie in 1927 caused a sensation in [Paris]. Her costume, consisting of only a short skirt of artificial bananas and a beaded necklace, became an iconic image and a symbol both of the Jazz Age and the Roaring Twenties.

Now that’s a costume, and there are some fun recordings of her singing jazzy French stuff.

Missouri had great jazz. You wouldn’t think it, would you? But in the 1920s, Prohibition wasn’t really enforced there, and 18th and Vine in Kansas City was as lively as anyplace in the country. The Kansas City Big Bands had their own style, blusier than New York or Chicago, with a frantic quality that makes you drive just a little faster if your foot’s on the peddle. There are great black big bands, Bennie Moten’s Kansas City Orchestra, Andy Kirk, George E. Lee, Count Basie . . . Two of the great jazz saxophonists, Lester Young and Charlie Parker, both came out of Kansas City.

There’s rock ‘n roll, too. Big Joe Turner is a joy, then there’s Chuck Berry, Ike and Tina Turner, Sheryl Crow, Michael McDonald, and T Bone Burnett. The Beatles went to Kansas City, or at least they were going.

St. Louis Blues has been covered by Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington, Bessie Smith, Louis Prima, Doc Watson, Herbie Hancock, Eartha Kitt, Art Tatum, and Ella Fitzgerald, and if your name is Louis, you can still meet Judy Garland there.

Ojon Mill, Photograph of Lester Young, 1944, Time Magazine, Volume 17, Number 13, Public Domain.

Guitar

I took my old Kohno classical, and spent some time at night playing. I don’t remember what, but I’ve been working on an arrangement of Gershwin’s Somebody Loves Me. That’s likely.

Missouri, Huckleberry Finn

From the Classics Illustrated comic book, 1965, Gilberton Company, Inc, New York, New York. According to the comic book, “reproductions of any material in any manner whatsoever are prohibited.” I’ll just go to hell.

For our trip to Missouri, I re-read The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn.

I’ve read Huckleberry Finn a lot over 50 years, not counting the times as a child that I read the Classics Illustrated comic book or the abridged version in the Reader’s Digest Best Loved Books for Young Readers. It’s a complicated book, and even when I’m not reading it I find myself thinking about it. Mrs. Pat Miller, maybe the most frightening woman any of us ever knew, explained to 15-year old me that 14 year-old Huck was as certain as any Evangelical of the consequences of sin. In my upbringing damnation mattered, and in Huck’s milieu–and in mine–folks day-by-day and minute-by-minute walked a fine line along the edge of the fiery pit. When Huck said he was going to hell, there wasn’t any wiggle room.

I suspect that while more modern folk understand the importance of Huck’s moment as literature, they may not properly appreciate it as inevitable damnation.

Apparently if you’re writing about Huck Finn, it’s obligatory to recite how it’s always been controversial. After publication it was immediately banned by librarians in Concord (with the aid of Louisa May Alcott of Little Women), and was recently damned by the novelist Jane Smiley,1 who was appalled that anyone ever took Huck Finn seriously. She compares it unfavorably to Uncle Tom’s Cabin, which is a little like comparing Moby-Dick unfavorably to the Orvis Guide to Flyfishing. They’re all fine books I’m certain, and Kris greatly admires Uncle Tom’s Cabin. Me, not so much, but then I don’t much admire Ms. Alcott’s Little Women either.

As for Jane Smiley, that broke leg must have pained her something fierce.

From the Classics Illustrated comic book, 1965. Classics Illustrated comic books are universally despised, but as a kid I loved them, and I still imagine the art when I read the book. Look at that purple night sky, that monstrous moon, that silhouette of a canoe in the moonlight . . . I would only note that in my experience the Mississippi is considerably broader than that river, and considerably muddier.

In addition to the criticisms of Mss. Alcott and Smiley, there has also been considerable discussion of Huck Finn’s racism, or lack thereof. The educator John H. Wallace deemed the novel “the most grotesque example of racist trash ever written.”2 Mr. Wallace demands that the original text only be used in graduate courses, and that his alternate text, which among other improvements eradicates the word “hell,” is the only thing that should be allowed in public schools. Of course that raises the question of where it is exactly that Huck is going to go when he frees Jim. How do you delete hell from a novel the climax of which resonates from the certainty of damnation?

The thing is, Huckleberry Finn doesn’t suffer from critics, and as often as not the criticism ponders things that should be pondered. Thinking about the critics’ concerns make reading the novel a richer experience. Conversely, Huck Finn doesn’t really need defense, certainly not from me. It’s a fine novel. There were a few things that this time around I focused on, and in no particular order here they are.

Pap. Pap is Huck’s father. He’s a drunkard. He sleeps in the hog lot on winter nights to stay warm. He is abusive, violent, insensible, and dangerous, and he only returns because he believes Huck is rich. In a delirium he tries to kill Huck with his clasp knife. There is a W.H. Auden quote to the effect that Pap Finn is the evilest creation in all bookdem.3 His chief role in the novel is to tee up Jim as the father surrogate for Huck and the moral compass of the novel, but he also explains Huck, both as to his condition as an outsider and what might be Huck’s likely future.

From the Classics Illustrated comic book, 1965. I’m fond of the red printers smudge on Huck’s spotless white shirt, and how the stuff is piled against the back wall so the artist didn’t have to contend with the joinder of the wall and floor.

Early on Pap also focuses the racial satire of the book. Pap, the least appealing possible man and father, goes off on a black college professor, a man who is clearly Pap’s superior:

Why, looky here. There was a free nigger4 there, from Ohio; a mulatter, most as white as a white man. He had the whitest shirt on you ever see, too, and the shiniest hat; and there ain’t a man in that town that’s got as fine clothes as what he had; and he had a gold watch and chain, and a silver-headed cane–the awfulest old gray headed nabob in the State. And what do you think? they said he was p’fessor in a college, and could talk all kinds of languages, and knowed everything. And that ain’t the wust. They said he could vote.5

Huck. A lot of modern criticism of Huckleberry Finn focuses on the escaped slave, Jim, and there’s reason for it. Without Jim, the novel is an extended fishing trip, and we all know how stupid it is to read about fishing trips. But Huck is there, too, and it is his journey. You just can’t read Huck Finn without considering Huck.

Huck is Pap’s child of a dead mother, abandoned to fend for himself. Always present is the possibility that someday Huck may turn into Pap. The Widow Douglas is trying to save him, and he’s a strong kid, with plenty of stratagems for self-preservation.

When you got to the table you couldn’t go right to eating, but you had to wait for the widow to tuck down her head and grumble a little over the victuals, though there warn’t really anything the matter with them. That is, nothing only everything was cooked by itself. In a barrel of odds and ends it is different; things get mixed up, and the juice kind of swaps around, and the things go better.6

Part of the delight of the book is that Huck lies. Huck lies to every stranger, kinsman, and acquaintance, Huck lies, then embellishes that lie, and then expands some on the embellishment. He lies to lead everyone so far astray that they miss him altogether. When in the rare instance Huck does tell the truth, even he is astonished.

So I went to studying it out. I says to myself, I reckon a body that ups and tells the truth when he is in a tight place is taking considerable many resks, though I ain’t had no experience, and can’t say for certain; but it looks so to me, anyway; and yet here’s a case where I’m blest if it don’t look to me like the truth is better and actuly safer than a lie. I must lay it by in my mind, and think it over some time or other, it’s so kind of strange and unregular. I never see nothing like it. 7

This is particularly helpful in parsing one of the most difficult (and most written about) exchanges in the book, when Huck is describing the fictional explosion on a nonexistent steamboat that he, asTom Sawyer, was supposed to be traveling on.

“It warn’t the grounding—that didn’t keep us back but a little. We blowed out a cylinder-head.”

“Good gracious! anybody hurt?”

“No’m. Killed a nigger.”

“Well, it’s lucky; because sometimes people do get hurt. ((Chapter XXXII))

Huck is talking to Mrs. Phelps, Tom Sawyer’s aunt. Huck is thrilled that Aunt Sally thinks he’s Tom, because he knows it’s a deception he can carry off. He is there to steal Jim out of slavery, and his only purpose is to get the Phelps’ trust so he can free Jim. It is a convoluted bit of business, and the foregoing infamous bit of dialogue is part and parcel of it.

From the Classics Illustrated comic book, 1965. It’s interesting how the fields of color, the yellow of the dress, the blue of the sky or Huck’s shirt, or the green of the grass, are made more interesting not by variations in shade, but by simple dots of contrasting or darker colors.

There are numerous interpretations of the dialogue. One is that Twain is caught in shameful and egregious callous racism. One is that it is heavily ironic, and that the irony is that Twain is noting the unconscious racism of Aunt Sally Phelps and Huck. For me, though, while it is noting the callous racism of Mrs. Phelps (who is otherwise a good woman), for Huck it’s just another lie, and it says nothing about Huck’s attitudes. Huck was never on a steamboat. No steamboat grounded, and no cylinder head blew. No one died. Huck is lying to put Aunt Sally off his track, because that’s what Huck does. Huck is there to save Jim, and he lies so that Aunt Sally won’t spot his motive.

The last chapters. It’s in the Constitution that if you talk about Huckleberry Finn, you have to quote Ernest Hemingway’s The Green Hills of Africa:

All modern American literature comes from one book by Mark Twain called Huckleberry Finn. If you read it you must stop where the Nigger Jim is stolen from the boys. That is the real end. The rest is just cheating. ((Hemingway, Ernest, The Green Hills of Africa, London, Jonathan Cape, 1936), 29. As an aside, there’s a lot of discussion by academics about the common naming of Jim as Nigger Jim by commentators. Twain never uses the term. ))

After Chapter 31, after the Duke and the King sell Jim for a portion of a fictitious reward payable by a fictitious downriver plantation, there is a chaotic change in the novel. Huck leaves the river and is confused for Tom Sawyer at Phelps’ farm. Tom Sawyer appears and takes over the lives of Jim and Huck; he leads them through a series of unnecessary and often demeaning gyrations which, one supposes, Twain hopes the reader finds hilarious. In some ways, those gyrations are more typical of Twain than the rest of the novel, and more in the vein of Tom Sawyer, or Connecticut Yankee, or the Prince and the Pauper. It’s certain that after the brilliance of the trip down the river, the final chapters are mostly viewed as a failure.

I’m stupid though. They often make me laugh out loud.

I’ve read that psychologically, the last chapters are true to the nature of boys. Huck would be coerced by Tom Sawyer because peer pressure is a lot of what adolescence is about. I don’t know about that, but I would say that at least in the context of Huckleberry Finn and The Adventures of Tom Sawyer, for Huck and Tom there’s nothing out of character in the last chapters. Tom is always the trigger for mayhem, and Huck is always at his least discerning and most likely to do something stupid when he subscribes to what someone else tells him. It’s a characteristic failure that he always trusts Tom Sawyer as to how things work, or at least follows along, and he often distrusts his own (usually better) judgment. Until Jim, Huck is the outcast, andTom was his truest friend.

As for Jim, what choice does he have but to go along with the absurdities? He has only one friend in the situation, Huck, and Huck trusts Tom, mostly. Even with all that, Jim performs the noblest act of the novel: he gives up his freedom to save Tom.

I must have read somewhere that if Twain had carried Huck Finn out to its logical conclusion, then it would have been a William Faulkner novel. It’s a view I’m not smart enough to have thought of myself, but heartily subscribe to. In a more likely end, Jim would have been lynched, or at least sold back into bondage. But Twain is writing not as Faulkner, but in the line of Oliver Twist or David Copperfield. Everything has to turn out right in the end, and it does, mostly.

Twain, Mark, The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn (New York, Charles L. Webster and Company, 1885), frontispiece illustration by E.W. Kimble.

  1. Smiley, Jane, “Say it Ain’t So, Huck,” Harper’s Monthly, January 1996, 61. Smiley re-read Huck Finn while immobilized with a broken leg. []
  2. Wallace, John H., “The Case Against Huck Finn,” in Satire or Evasion: Black Perspectives on Huckleberry Finn, ed. Leonard, James S., Tenney, Thomas A, and Davis, Thaddeus M. (Durham and London, Duke University Press, 1992), 16. []
  3. I’ve been trying to find the exact quote, and of course it’s taken off for the territory. Auden certainly didn’t say the precise words I’ve attributed to him, but if he didn’t say something like the sense of it, then I’ll claim it as my own and be proud. []
  4. It appears more than 200 times in Huck Finn, and in talking about the book, there’s no getting around it. Much of the difficulty of Huck Finn‘s racism is not that it is a racist statement by Twain, but that Twain revels in irony, including the irony of the constant racist language. It doesn’t mean that Huck Finn shouldn’t be taught, ever, but that it takes a good and careful teacher, or at least the meanest teacher you ever had, with students who are old enough to get irony. It never helps that Twain often states as gospel what isn’t, just to illuminate what is. []
  5. Chapter V. It’s worth noting also that while Huckleberry Finn is a historical novel set in 1840, Twain writes Huck Finn between 1875 and 1886, during the failure of Reconstruction and the rise of segregated America, North and South. Arguably, Pap’s diatribe isn’t so much a statement of the world view of a particularly evil man, as a statement about the rise of Jim Crow in a particularly evil world. []
  6. Chapter I. Before being taken in by the Widow Douglas, Huck has apparently survived on slop, and he seems to appreciate its value. []
  7. Chapter XXVII. Huck deciding to tell the truth to Mary Jane. []

We blew into Missouri (March 31-April 3, 2023)

If you leave Houston early enough, you can drive to Branson, Missouri, in about eleven hours. There are all sorts of problems with that, and not least that going to Branson is kind of a dubious life choice. According to Google Maps, it’s about a 10-hour drive, and Google maps doesn’t account for things like filling up with gas and eating lunch and walking the dogs and going to the bathroom, so you have to tack on another hour or so to the trip. Some of that time is made up by our mild speeding, but to get there by 3:00, we would have needed to have left by 4 in the morning. That was vaguely my goal, and I’m not sure why, except that I was excited to be on the road. We left home after 6:00.

The route is peculiar. It takes you into the edge of Shreveport, Louisiana, then around Texarkana. After that you drive northeast on I-30 to Little Rock. I-30 in Arkansas is a terrible place to drive. To go anywhere, say from Connecticut to Massachusetts, 18-wheelers are legally required to drive through Arkansas on I-30. It’s a pretty state, and would be a pleasant state to drive through if it weren’t for all those trucks. Well that and the tornadoes.

We were using Apple Maps for the route, and early morning in East Texas we started getting wind warnings. Suddenly the map would go black and there would be a warning:

It’s really windy outside, and the National Weather Service has issued wind warnings for right about where you’re standing. Be sure and hang onto your hat. Press the Screen to ignore this message.

So a couple or three times between Houston and Hope, Arkansas, I pressed the screen so we could get back to the book we were listening to and ignore the wind warnings. Later, around Hot Springs, Kris was driving and I was napping, and we started getting warnings like this:

The National Weather Service has been watching your progress, and they are concerned that you’re ignoring their wind warnings. They’re upping the ante. As of now, this is a Tornado Watch. Look out your car window. See those ominous clouds to the west? Keep watch, and if you see a tornado, get off the road. Don’t fiddle around. Get out of the car and find a low spot and hang onto your hat. Press the screen to ignore this message, but it’d probably be better if you didn’t.

Well. That got our attention and we watched the clouds plenty. I googled what to do if we were caught in a tornado.

Get out of your car. Avoid trees. Find a low spot and lay down with your hands covering your head. There’s going to be debris, and anyway you’ll want to hold onto your hat. Don’t stop under an overpass because like as not it will be a wind tunnel and you’ll blow all the way to Branson.

So now in addition to watching for tornadoes, I was looking for likely low spots, of which there were plenty, but this was Arkansas, and there weren’t many low spots free of trees. At Benton, just southwest of Little Rock, the tornado watch was upgraded to a tornado warning, and then as we were driving through Little Rock it was upgraded to a Tornado Emergency and we got this:

What the hell do you think you’re doing? Are you nuts? The sky is full of lightning, the clouds are swirling, and there is a tornado touching down right here, right now. Get off the road, you nitwit! Take shelter! Forget your damned hat and if you’ve got one wear a helmet! Ignore this message and you deserve what you get!

We were at a highway exit so Kris took it, drove past a Kroger’s on the left and into an office park a little further on the right. She parked, but I was still looking for a likely low place and spotted a daycare center doorway sheltered by a retaining wall at the lowest part of the lot, so she moved the car to park next to the daycare.

We got out of the car just as the emergency warning sirens started howling. The daycare door was locked, and inside it was dark. Then of a sudden there were tree branches flying into the sky and water blowing around the sides of the building in horizontal sheets. We lay on the sidewalk between the building and the retaining wall, thankfully out of the worst of the wind and the rain, with Kris laying on our two dogs and me laying on Kris.

Debris flew, the wind howled, the sirens blared, the rain rained. . . Then the door opened and the daycare owner yelled get in here, right now, and we did.

Man, do I love that lady.

It turned out that it wasn’t a daycare, but a play space for toddlers, and it all looked pretty fun to me. By then I guess I was highly suggestible. Back to that earlier warning though, the one where Apple Maps told us to get off the road if we saw a tornado, how did they expect us to see a tornado when all you can see in the midst of the actual thing is flying rain and debris? I did steal this dandy photo from CBS News:

Tornado causes major damage in Arkansas as massive storm system hits  Midwest - CBS News

I figure we spent about half of the tornado laying on that sidewalk, and about half of it in the the Wonder Place, but the part on the sidewalk sure seemed longer. All things being equal, inside the play center was better. The National Weather Service clocked winds of 165 miles per hour. People died.

It didn’t really take long for the storm to blow over, and after it stopped we walked around the parking lot and gaped at flipped cars and downed trees, and then across the lot here comes the play space lady leading a half-dozen dogs she’d rescued from a pet groomers. If you need some good karma, just go stand next to that lady and let some rub off. I think right now she’s got about an extra year’s supply. And if you’re the parent of toddlers in Little Rock, I can highly recommend The Wonder Place Playspace for your kids. It is a little refuge in a world of toil and woe, and the owner may be our favorite person ever.

It was just as well by the way that we had moved the car down earlier, because it looked to me like a tree had parked in the space that we vacated.

After the worst of it we sat in the car for a while in the parking lot of The Wonder Place and listened to Little Rock radio. It was all weather, all the time. We went back inside when another squall blew through, but that was just some hard rain and a little wind, and it didn’t last long. When we were certain that the storm was out of Little Rock and moving northeast, we took off northwest.

That Kroger parking lot on the other side of the road? It was a mess. Flipped cars, smashed store fronts, ripped off roofs . . .

I’m glad we didn’t stop at that Kroger’s. We could have easily stopped at Kroger’s. If it had been on our right instead of our left when we came off the freeway we almost certainly would have stopped there. Avoiding crowded parking lots should probably be added to the list of things to do if you’re caught outside in a tornado.

On the highway there wasn’t much traffic on our side of the road, not even trucks, though on the other side going the opposite way cars were backed up for miles. Apparently traffic was blocked at the interchange where we had first exited. Damage to the overpass? Flipped cars? I don’t know, and it seems like something I should have known to come full circle. We didn’t go back to find out.

A few hours later, up in the Ozarks, everything was bright and sunny.

We got to Branson and made it to our restaurant reservation at the Keeter Center at the College of the Ozarks. It’s student run, and it was fine, but I surely wouldn’t have minded a drink. It’s a conservative Christian institution though, and they don’t serve alcohol. I drank a lot of iced tea.

This post isn’t really about Missouri, is it? It’s not really about fishing, either. We did fish in Missouri. The day after the tornado we had booked a float trip for trout on the White River in Branson, but when we met our guide at River Run Outfitters, he said that the river was too high, and that winds on the river were gusting up to 40 miles per hour. We decided that we’d had about enough wind, and they were happy to refund our deposit.

He recommended that we go to Roaring River State Park, and made suggestions about flies and how to fish the river. I caught a couple of rainbow trout there. The next day we went to Crane Creek–which I highly recommend–and Kris caught one and I caught a couple more. Other than that I haven’t got a lot of recommendations, except to avoid Little Rock when it’s windy, and to do what your Apple Maps tells you.