Month: January 2018

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I’m Going to Disney World

Actually I’m not.  I’m going to West Palm Beach in 23 days, where the Astros will play the Nationals in the first spring training game of the season.  Maybe somewhere between Mickey Mouse and 331  lynchings of African Americans, between Where the Boys Are and Scarface, there may be some there there in the Sunshine State.

I like to travel, and I’m old enough to know that at best when you travel you get some passing notion of a place, and you get some interesting tales with which to bore your friends.  There’s not much method in how I choose where I go:  I go places for business, or family, or to watch the Astros play.  Sometimes I go to fish.  But how I approach the place is usually similar. I try to get ready for travel by reading some books about the place I’m going.  If nothing else I at least read a mystery novel or two. I try to put together a music soundtrack of the place. I try to stay at a hotel with some history. I find it easiest to visit cities: there are civic buildings, there are museums, there are restaurants and baseball stadiums and public transportation.  Recently I’ve made it a point to go fishing because it gets me into the landscape.

We’ve booked a guide in Florida, found a place to stay, and bought our baseball tickets.  It’s a quick trip in and out to a place I went once, many years ago.  I didn’t fish then.  I saw no museums.  I drove around, went to the beach once, and saw nick-knack shops.

Getting ready to go to Florida I’ve been listening to Finding Florida by T.D. Allman. In many ways it’s a good book.  Did you know that Florida has no metals and no igneous rock? That makes it hard to advance to the paleolithic if you’re not already there, but apparently the aboriginal Foridians did quite well with what was to hand. I gather they ate a lot of oysters and made arrowheads out of fish bones. The pre-Columbians did not do so well with disease or the Spanish, and disappeared.  The Seminoles were not natives but refugees from Georgia, and would have to wait for the Americans to be mistreated.

Ponce de Leon never searched for the Fountain of Youth, and that favorite story of my childhood was made up out of whole cloth by Washington Irving.  Andrew Jackson was a bastard, but I had suspected as much. Allman criticizes the economic and racial reality of The Yearling, my mother’s favorite coming of age YA novel about a boy and his deer.  It was published in 1938 when she was 21.

Which is the problem with Allman: his unrelenting moral outrage.  Everybody was a bastard, at least among the Europeans and their descendants. No doubt the only things ever produced out of Florida were racism, cupidity, and film-flam, though being a Texan I don’t know why that makes them so special.  But truly, I really doubt that every Floridian woke up every day thinking I’m going to go out today and do something evil, or at least really stupid. Allman can even get indignant about Stephen F. Foster’s “Old Folks Back Home” for what seems like acres of print.  It just hardly seems worth the effort about a fake sweet song about longing.  All that righteousness does get wearisome, and honestly, I don’t know what he wants me to do? Not go to Florida? Tell all Floridians whose ancestors weren’t either Seminoles or slaves that they are deeply flawed?  Of course there is Florida Man.  Maybe they are deeply flawed.

Which gets back to how hiring a guide to go fishing for four hours is just a bit like going to Disney World, but then all travel is. At worst I’ll have a thrill ride courtesy of some poor fish, at best I’ll understand just a bit more of the world. I do need to watch Where the Boys Are.  I haven’t read Allman’s criticism of Spring Break yet.

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Damon’s 7 Lakes

Crappie spawn when the water hits a bit below 60, but pre-spawn they go onto the flats in a feeding frenzy.  I’ve hit the frenzy twice, years ago, once at Lake Raven in Huntsville State Park and once on a farm pond, and it’s unforgettable.  After the hard freezes last week the Houston temperature has climbed back into the high 60s, and I thought I might catch the frenzy.  I didn’t, There were no crappie in the shallows so I fished for bass.

Damon’s 7 Lakes is a cluster of private lakes in Brazoria County about an hour from our house. Brazoria County was part of the original William B. Travis land grant, and pre-Civil War it was the richest county in Texas.  It’s wealth was slave based, producing sugar and cotton off slave plantations.  A  great-great grandfather and grandmother, William Hamilton Todd and Martha Ann Mangrum Todd, are buried nearby in the Confederate Cemetery in Alvin. I don’t know why he ended up in Alvin (since he didn’t get there until 1880 or so), and his son, my grandmother’s father, left for the Oklahoma land rush after the 1900 Galveston flood.  At least I think that’s when he left.

The community of Damon sports the highest point in the county, rising 144 feet above sea level. There’s no significant temperature change because of the higher elevation, so there are no trout streams.

We’ve been going to Damon for five or six years now, and I think Kris is a little bored.  She spent the day birding.  I like it though.  I like to cast and there’s no good reason not to when bass fishing.  Cast and cast and cast.  Cast 20 feet, cast 60 feet, boom one out there or not.  As long as there’s structure you’ve got as much chance at a fish on one cast as any other.

Even better though is that on the way to Damon’s, only a few miles out of the way, is Pena’s Donut Heaven.

I know that Mr. Pena is a retired Houston firefighter, and I know that he is a donut genius.  I had the red cake donut with the cream, the maple and bacon, and the blueberry with sprinkles.

On the way home, only a half-hour out of the way, is Killen’s Barbeque.  Mr. Killen is a meat genius. I had never seen Killen’s without a line down the street, but it was close to 3 when we got there.  Kris ordered the fried chicken, which seemed like apostasy, but it was pretty good.

And my brisket sandwich was certainly good.

I fished my 7 weight, a Loomis Asquith (presumably named after something, but I can’t figure out what) with a Tibor Back Country reel.  I had a winter redfish line on, because that’s my usual saltwater rod, and I was fishing an olive meat wagon.  Caught three bass, two small and one ok.  We fished about an hour.

Probably not my last Texas fish in this project, but it’s my first state, Texas.

 

 

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Hiring Fly Fishing Guides

Spring training is in West Palm Beach, and the games are in the daytime, so I really hadn’t planned to go fishing, but Kris wanted to go, and there you are. I didn’t know if there would be fly fishing in West Palm Beach, I didn’t know what to fish for, so I started hunting around the internet.

The first time I ever fished with a guide was probably 25 years ago, in Idaho, with Kris.  The guide intimidated me, and I thought he would rather have guided someone who knew what they were doing. We fished the Big Wood River, outside of Hailey where Ezra Pound was born.  I knew a good bit more about Ezra Pound than fly fishing.

My second trip with a guide was in Galveston, not long after, with Captain Chris Phillips.  I picked Chris because saltwater fly fishing in Texas wasn’t that common, and in Galveston Chris was it.  I thought Chris liked me a good bit more than I deserved, and I fished with him off and on for 15 years.  He was a legend in these parts, and when he died–eight years ago?–it was the death of a sweet man.

My third trip, with another Texas saltwater guide out of Rockport, was a bust, and I felt cheated.

I’ve fished with lots of guides.  I’ve had young guides who worked hard, old guides who were lazy, and vice versa.  I’ve had knowledgeable guides who taught me a lot, and I’ve even made a few friends.  Whether my guides were good or not seemed somewhat random, but I’ve worked out some guidelines:

  • If they’re in the Orvis lists, they’re likely to be ok.  You know the list, it’s on the Orvis website, and it’s one more thing they sell.  I’m certain the guides pay to be on there, but there seems to be vetting, and I’ve never had a bad guide off the list.  Ever.
  • Local fly shops will recommend good guides.  I’ve had guides who were abrupt, or too young, but I’ve almost always had good luck with the guide if not the fish.
  • Be dubious of the recommendations in your local fly shop of a guide many miles away.  They likely don’t know the guide.
  • A guide’s boat may be a good indication of his quality, at least in saltwater.  Guides with good boats are invested.  They’ve given their craft some care, even before you get there.
  • If a guide is booked for your time slot, ask for a recommendation, but don’t immediately assume their  recommendation is ok.  Guides may fish with a fellow guide or they may only share beers, but they aren’t likely to be guided by a fellow guide.
  • Guides who don’t fly fish may put you on fish, but they may not know what fly to use.  Especially in saltwater I’ve fished from time to time with conventional tackle guys.  It’s never been bad, and they knew the water, but they didn’t necessarily know flies.  I watched thousands of black drum stream by in the 9-Mile Hole near Corpus and had no idea what to throw at a black drum.  Black drum flies are not the same as redfish flies I gather, but you’d think if the guide fly fished I could have caught more than one.
  • When you’re going somewhere, read about the fishing where you’re going.  Check the internet.  Lots of guides write as advertising, and if what they write makes sense, they’re likely to make sense as well.
  • Product endorsements are meaningless for picking guides, but if you want to try a product line fish with an endorsed guide.  It’s a great way to try out equipment.

As for that guide on the Big Wood River, we were setting up rods and he pulled out new tapered leaders and put them on our lines.  He said “I always feel rich when I put on a new leader.” Great line, and something to remember.

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Girdle Bugs

I tried to fish for trout on the Guadalupe Sunday without a split shot, and ran into two problems.  The flow is so slow, and the river is so shallow, that the weight of my attractor–a girdle bug tied on a muddler hook–was still causing too many hangups in the rocks.  I had wrapped them 10 times or so with .025 wire.  I re-tied this week with .015.

It raised a problem for me, how do I tell last week’s girdle bugs, which would be just fine in heavier water, from this week’s girdle bugs?  I searched the internet, where writers suggested you should organize your fly boxes by weight.  Fat chance that.  My fly boxes are filled with good intent, but this week’s organization is largely chaos by the next time I go fishing.  I do manage to keep nymphs in one box, streamers in one, dries in a third, and little tiny things I can’t see anymore in a fourth.  And I like the notion of loading what I actually plan to fish in still another box.  I tied this week’s girdle bugs in brown, which contrasts from the prior week’s black.  Of course that means this week I have no black girdle bugs to fish.

I also had some 5x Umpqua tippet that was rotten.  How old was it? No clue, but it couldn’t have more than a decade. I guess after a few decades none of us are what we were.